Trip Report: Zimbabwe & Botswana, October 29 - December 4, 1998

Linda Lee Baker, Bonita Springs, FL, USA; LLBaker@aol.com

This trip was taken by my non-birding husband and myself. Another non-birding couple joined us for the first 6 days.

Flew to Harare from Naples, Florida via Miami and London. Arrived Harare on October 31. Our trip was divided into sections -- Zimbabwe national parks, a private game camp, and Botswana game reserves. All arrangements were made with Londa Mela Safaris. Except for our time in the Bulawayo, Zimbabwe area, when we resided in lodges or cabins, we camped in tents. Our tenting facilities were tents large enough to stand upright and for 2 cots and a small table between them. We had ensuite facilities -- i.e. each tent had a canvas enclosure at the back with a pit toilet with a box and toilet seat over it and a canvas bucket shower that was filled with water heated over the campfire. We had a guide and a staff of 3 -- a cook/driver, a server, and a helper. Most people who are not into camping consider what we did as "roughing it". However, we still had some of the comforts not found in the more primitive situations. The staff took care of our cooking, cleaning, and laundry. They even ironed our clothes, using an iron filled with hot coals.

Zimbabwe

October 31 - November 5: Hwange National Park

We camped here for 5 nights. The daytime temperatures hovered around 100°F (38°C), nights got down to the mid-80's (29°C). We were able to stay relatively comfortable by keeping our clothes wet, draping wet towels over our heads or shoulders, and keeping our activity limited to early morning and late afternoon. We chose this time of year because it is the end of the dry season, when the ground water is at a minimum, bringing the game to existing waterholes. It worked, because animal viewing was superb before the rains started. We saw every species of mammal (see list at end of report) that we had hoped to see, except for Cheetah. We had fabulous viewing of elephants, lions, giraffes, sable, roan, and the ubiquitous impala. This park is lovely with mopane woodland and savannah woodland habitats. During this stay in Hwange NP, I saw and identified 72 species of birds, of which 21 were lifers.

Great White Pelican                     Pelecanus onocrotalus
Egyptian Goose                          Alopochen aegyptiacus
Gray Heron                              Ardea cinerea
Goliath Heron                           Ardea goliath
Cattle Egret                            Bubulcus ibis
Hamerkop                                Scopus umbretta
**African Spoonbill                     Platalea alba
Yellow-billed Stork                     Mycteria ibis
Abdim's Stork                           Ciconia abdimii
Saddle-billed Stork                     Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Osprey                                  Pandion haliaetus
**Cuckoo Hawk                           Aviceda cuculoides
Yellow-billed Kite                      Milvus aegyptius
African Fish-Eagle                      Haliaeetus vocifer
White-backed Vulture                    Gyps africanus
**Cape Vulture                          Gyps coprotheres
Lappet-faced Vulture                    Torgos tracheliotus
White-headed Vulture                    Trigonoceps occipitalis
Bateleur                                Terathopius ecaudatus
**Gymnogene                             Polyboroides typus
Tawny Eagle                             Aquila rapax
**African Hawk-Eagle                    Hieraaetus spilogaster
Martial Eagle                           Polemaetus bellicosus
Dickinson's Kestrel                     Falco dickinsoni
Helmeted Guineafowl                     Numida meleagris
Swainson's Francolin                    Francolinus swainsonii
Black-winged Stilt                      Himantopus himantopus
Blacksmith Plover                       Vanellus armatus
Laughing Dove                           Streptopelia senegalensis
Cape Turtle Dove                        Streptopelia capicola
Red-eyed Dove                           Streptopelia semitorquata
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove               Turtur chalcospilos
**African Green-Pigeon                  Treron calva
Meyer's Parrot                          Poicephalus meyeri
Gray Lourie                             Corythaixoides concolor
Pearl-spotted Owlet                     Glaucidium perlatum
Little Bee-eater                        Merops pusillus
***Swallow-tailed Bee-eater             Merops hirundineus
**European Roller                       Coracias garrulus
Lilac-breasted Roller                   Coracias caudata
Broad-billed Roller                     Eurystomus glaucurus
Red-billed Woodhoopoe                   Phoeniculus purpureus
Greater Scimitar-bill                   Rhinopomastus cyanomelas
Red-billed Hornbill                     Tockus erythrorhynchus
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill         Tockus leucomelas
Southern Ground-Hornbill                Bucorvus leadbeateri
White-browed Robin                      Poecilodryas superciliosa
**Eurasian Golden-Oriole                Oriolus oriolus
**Red-backed Shrike                     Lanius collurio
**Long-tailed Shrike                    Lanius schach
**White-crowned Shrike                  Eurocephalus anguitimens
**Three-streaked Tchagra                Tchagra jamesi
Glossy Starling                         Lamprotornis nitens
Meves's Long-tailed Starling            Lamprotornis mevesii
Yellow-billed Oxpecker                  Buphagus africanus
Red-billed Oxpecker                     Buphagus erythrorhynchus
**Lesser Striped-Swallow                Hirundo abyssinica
**Common House-Martin                   Delichon urbica
Common (Black-eyed) Bulbul              Pycnonotus barbatus
Arrow-marked Babbler                    Turdoides jardineii
**Monotonous Lark                       Mirafra passerina
**Southern Grey-headed Sparrow          Passer diffusus
**Melba Finch                           Pytilia melba
Blue Waxbill                            Uraeginthus angolensis
**Violet-eared Waxbill                  Uraeginthus granatina
**Grassveld Pipit                       Anthus cinnamomeus
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver             Plocepasser mahali
Southern Masked-Weaver                  Ploceus velatus
Red-billed Quelea                       Quelea quelea
Yellow-eyed Canary                      Serinus mozambicus
**Yellow Canary                         Serinus flaviventris
Golden-breasted Bunting                 Emberiza flaviventris
**=Lifebird

November 6-7: Matusadona National Park

From Hwange, we were supposed to fly to Kariba to pick up a charter flight to Matusadona National Park. Easier said than done. Because President Robert Mugabe felt that he needed troops to be sent to The Congo to protect his personal financial interests there, airplanes, jet fuel, and spare parts were also being sent. That left Air Zimbabwe without. On our first try, we did not get out at all. Air Zim put all the passengers up at Hwange Safari Lodge, a lovely hotel on the edge of Hwange NP and a far different category than our tent! After one night in delightful air-conditioned quarters with swimming pool, we returned to the airport. After a delay, a plane from Uganda Airways was borrowed by Air Zim, and we were taken to Victoria Falls (about 50 miles from where we started). Later, we were flown to Harare. From there, Air Zim offered to bus the passengers to Kariba -- a five-hour drive. We would have missed our connection with our charter, so we hired the charter directly from Harare to Matusadona NP. When we deplaned in Matusadona, it was 114 °F (46°C) in the shade. Since it was late afternoon, it cooled down to 90°F (32°C). We made it to our campsite, which was a 1 1/2-hour drive from the landing strip.

At dinner that evening, we watched a forest fire burning down a hillside about 10 miles away, while lions roared at our backs. Because it was before moonrise, it was totally black beyond the range of our lanterns. The lions sounded very close, and I felt like they were breathing down my neck, although they were probably on the far side of a wide ravine by which we were camped. The next morning, the other couple who was with us and our guide drove to headquarters and arranged for us to leave. While they worked on arrangements, my husband and I remained in camp, where we were visited by an elephant and 19 species (5 lifers) of birds. By 11:00 AM, it was 122°F (50°C). Of the 18 campsites that had been occupied, we were the next to last to depart. Only one group opted to stay in the heat. The other couple with us went on their way to South Africa. We flew to Bulawayo, where it was only 64°F (17°C) and got down to the mid-50's (about 12°C) at night. There has to be a happy medium!!

African Fish-Eagle                      Haliaeetus vocifer
Crested Francolin                       Francolinus sephaena
Double-banded Sandgrouse                Pterocles bicinctus
**African Palm-Swift                    Cypsiurus parvus
Little Bee-eater                        Merops pusillus
Southern Carmine Bee-eater              Merops nubicoides
Lilac-breasted Roller                   Coracias caudata
Broad-billed Roller                     Eurystomus glaucurus
Red-billed Woodhoopoe                   Phoeniculus purpureus
Red-billed Hornbill                     Tockus erythrorhynchus
African Gray Hornbill                   Tockus nasutus
Southern Ground-Hornbill                Bucorvus leadbeateri
African Paradise-Flycatcher             Terpsiphone viridis
Fork-tailed Drongo                      Dicrurus adsimilis
**Gray-headed Bushshrike                Malaconotus blanchoti
**Spotted Flycatcher                    Muscicapa striata
**Collared Palm-Thrush                  Cichladusa arquata
Common (Black-eyed) Bulbul              Pycnonotus barbatus
**Southern Black-Tit                    Parus niger

November 8-13: Bulawayo

We stayed in several places around Bulawayo. We started out at the private game reserve, Camp Amalinda, owned by Londa Mela Safaris. Because we were supposed to be at Matusadona and Mana Pools National Parks during this time, there was room at Amalinda for only the first 2 nights. After that, we spent one night at Farmhouse Cottages, about a mile from Amalinda, and Paddy's Retreat on the other side of Bulawayo. Our activities were still arranged by Londa Mela. We visited the Museum of Natural History, Matopos National Park, the grounds of Camp Amalinda, Bulawayo, Aiselby Municipal Sewage Treatment Facility (requisite sewage plant!). We watched 51 species (12 lifers) of birds at Matopos NP, 58 (16 lifers) at Aiselby, 28 (9 lifers) at Camp Amalinda. In Matopos NP, we also got very close to 3 Black Rhinos while we were walking! The numbers and species of animals were less, but we had some nice sightings.

**Little Grebe (Dabchick)               Tachybaptus ruficollis
Reed (Long-tailed) Cormorant            Phalacrocorax africanus
Great (White-breasted) Cormorant        Phalacrocorax carbo
African Darter                          Anhinga rufa
Egyptian Goose                          Alopochen aegyptiacus
Comb Duck (Knob-billed)                 Sarkidiornis melanotos
**African Black Duck                    Anas sparsa
Red-billed Duck (Teal)                  Anas erythrorhyncha
**Hottentot Teal                        Anas hottentota
**Great White Egret                     Casmerodius albus
Little Egret                            Egretta garzetta
Gray Heron                              Ardea cinerea
Cattle Egret                            Bubulcus ibis
Hamerkop                                Scopus umbretta
Glossy Ibis                             Plegadis falcinellus
Sacred Ibis                             Threskiornis aethiopicus
African Spoonbill                       Platalea alba
Yellow-billed Stork                     Mycteria ibis
Saddle-billed Stork                     Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Yellow-billed Kite                      Milvus aegyptius
African Fish-Eagle                      Haliaeetus vocifer
Brown Snake-Eagle                       Circaetus cinereus
**Augur Buzzard                         Buteo augur
**Black Eagle                           Ictinaetus malayensis
**Lesser Spotted Eagle                  Aquila pomarina
**Steppe Eagle                          Aquila nipalensis
Wahlberg's Eagle                        Aquila wahlbergi
African Hawk-Eagle                      Hieraaetus spilogaster
Eurasian Hobby                          Falco subbuteo
Peregrine Falcon                        Falco peregrinus
Helmeted Guineafowl                     Numida meleagris
**Natal Francolin                       Francolinus natalensis
Swainson's Francolin                    Francolinus swainsonii
**Black Crake                           Amaurornis flavirostra
Common Moorhen                          Gallinula chloropus
Red-knobbed Coot                        Fulica cristata
Kori Bustard                            Ardeotis kori
African Jacana                          Actophilornis africanus
**Common Redshank                       Tringa totanus
Marsh Sandpiper                         Tringa stagnatilis
Lesser Yellowlegs                       Tringa flavipes
**Green Sandpiper                       Tringa ochropus
Wood Sandpiper                          Tringa glareola
Common Sandpiper                        Tringa hypoleucos
Water Thick-knee (Dikkop)               Burhinus vermiculatus
Black-winged Stilt                      Himantopus himantopus
**Kittlitz's Plover                     Charadrius pecuarius
Three-banded Plover                     Charadrius tricollaris
Blacksmith Plover                       Vanellus armatus
White-headed Lapwing                    Vanellus albiceps
**Wattled Lapwing (Plover)              Vanellus senegallus
**Crowned Lapwing (Plover)              Vanellus coronatus
Laughing Dove                           Streptopelia senegalensis
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove               Turtur chalcospilos
Namaqua Dove                            Oena capensis
**Red-faced Mousebird                   Urocolius indicus
Gray Lourie                             Corythaixoides concolor
**Pied (Jacobin) Cuckoo                 Oxylophus jacobinus
**Dideric (Diederik) Cuckoo             Chrysococcyx caprius
**Brown-hooded Kingfisher               Halcyon albiventris
Pied Kingfisher                         Ceryle rudis
Little Bee-eater                        Merops pusillus
European Bee-eater                      Merops apiaster
Lilac-breasted Roller                   Coracias caudata
African Hoopoe                          Upupa africana
Red-billed Woodhoopoe                   Phoeniculus purpureus
Greater Scimitar-bill                   Rhinopomastus cyanomelas
Red-billed Hornbill                     Tockus erythrorhynchus
African Gray Hornbill                   Tockus nasutus
**Pied Barbet                           Tricholaema leucomelas
Black-collared Barbet                   Lybius torquatus
Crested Barbet                          Trachyphonus vaillantii
African Paradise-Flycatcher             Terpsiphone viridis
Fork-tailed Drongo                      Dicrurus adsimilis
**White-necked Raven                    Corvus albicollis
African Black-headed Oriole             Oriolus larvatus
Long-tailed Shrike                      Lanius schach
Common Fiscal Shrike                    Lanius collaris
**Black-backed Puffback                 Dryoscopus cubla
**Tropical Boubou                       Laniarius aethiopicus
Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike)       Laniarius atrococcineus
Gray-headed Bushshrike                  Malaconotus blanchoti
White Helmetshrike                      Prionops plumatus
**Groundscraper Thrush                  Psophocichla litsipsirupa
Kurrichane Thrush                       Turdus libonyanus
Red-winged Starling                     Onychognathus morio
Glossy Starling                         Lamprotornis nitens
**Plum-coloured Starling                Cinnyricinclus leucogaster
**Mariqua (Marico) Flycatcher           Bradornis mariquensis
**Mocking Chat                          Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris
Wire-tailed Swallow                     Hirundo smithii
Common (Black-eyed) Bulbul              Pycnonotus barbatus
**Bar-throated Apalis                   Apalis thoracica
**Red-faced Crombec                     Sylvietta whytii
**Willow Warbler                        Phylloscopus trochilus
Southern Black-Tit                      Parus niger
**Dusky Lark                            Mirafra nigricans
**Yellow-throated Petronia (Sparrow)    Petronia superciliaris
Jameson's Firefinch                     Lagonosticta rhodopareia
Blue Waxbill                            Uraeginthus angolensis
**Bronze Mannikin                       Lonchura cucullata
**Pin-tailed Whydah                     Vidua macroura
African Pied Wagtail                    Motacilla aguimp
Cape Wagtail                            Motacilla capensis
Grassveld Pipit                         Anthus cinnamomeus
**Scaly-feathered Finch                 Sporopipes squamifrons
Lesser Masked Weaver                    Ploceus intermedius
Southern Masked-Weaver                  Ploceus velatus
**Red-headed Weaver                     Anaplectes rubriceps
Red-billed Quelea                       Quelea quelea
**Yellow-rumped Widow                   Euplectes capensis
**Scarlet-chested Sunbird               Nectarinia senegalensis
**Miombo Double-collared Sunbird        Nectarinia manoensis
**Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird              Nectarinia mariquensis
Yellow-eyed Canary                      Serinus mozambicus
**Streaky-headed Seedeater (Canary)     Serinus gularis
**Black-eared Seedeater (Canary)        Serinus mennelli
Golden-breasted Bunting                 Emberiza flaviventris

November 14-19: Hwange National Park

Since the heat had still not abated at Matusadona and Mana Pools, we opted to return to Hwange NP and to camp in a different part of the park. Game viewing was still excellent. We had elephants, baboons, and giraffes visit us at the campsite. Our first night back in Hwange, it rained hard for about 2 hours. Everything that our guide predicted to happen following the first rain took place. The flying ants (termites) and red velvet spiders came out of the ground. Most species of birds and some animals (including some humans) find the former very tasty. The spiders look like red velvet and were beautiful. Some of the dry waterholes began to retain water, which attracted animals to them. Ground water began to collect in depressions. Game viewing was still excellent, because there was not yet enough water away from the main waterholes. (However, reports from safari-goers one week later, after additional rain, was that the animal sightings were very few, and the numbers of animals seen were small.) 75 species of birds; 16 lifers.

Ostrich                                 Struthio camelus
Egyptian Goose                          Alopochen aegyptiacus
Spur-winged Goose                       Plectropterus gambensis
Red-billed Duck (Teal)                  Anas erythrorhyncha
Great White Egret                       Casmerodius albus
Gray Heron                              Ardea cinerea
Goliath Heron                           Ardea goliath
Cattle Egret                            Bubulcus ibis
Hamerkop                                Scopus umbretta
Yellow-billed Stork                     Mycteria ibis
**Black Stork                           Ciconia nigra
Saddle-billed Stork                     Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Yellow-billed Kite                      Milvus aegyptius
African Fish-Eagle                      Haliaeetus vocifer
Hooded Vulture                          Necrosyrtes monachus
White-headed Vulture                    Trigonoceps occipitalis
Bateleur                                Terathopius ecaudatus
Gabar Goshawk                           Melierax gabar
Tawny Eagle                             Aquila rapax
Steppe Eagle                            Aquila nipalensis
African Hawk-Eagle                      Hieraaetus spilogaster
Secretary-bird                          Sagittarius serpentarius
**Lesser Kestrel                        Falco naumanni
Peregrine Falcon                        Falco peregrinus
Helmeted Guineafowl                     Numida meleagris
**Red-billed Francolin                  Francolinus adspersus
Swainson's Francolin                    Francolinus swainsonii
**Southern Crowned Crane                Balearica regulorum
**Red-crested Bustard (Korhaan)         Eupodotis ruficrista
Common Redshank                         Tringa totanus
Marsh Sandpiper                         Tringa stagnatilis
Wood Sandpiper                          Tringa glareola
Common Sandpiper                        Tringa hypoleucos
Ruff                                    Philomachus pugnax
Water Thick-knee (Dikkop)               Burhinus vermiculatus
Black-winged Stilt                      Himantopus himantopus
Three-banded Plover                     Charadrius tricollaris
Blacksmith Plover                       Vanellus armatus
Crowned Lapwing (Plover)                Vanellus coronatus
Laughing Dove                           Streptopelia senegalensis
Cape Turtle Dove                        Streptopelia capicola
Red-eyed Dove                           Streptopelia semitorquata
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove               Turtur chalcospilos
Namaqua Dove                            Oena capensis
African Cuckoo                          Cuculus gularis
Pearl-spotted Owlet                     Glaucidium perlatum
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater                Merops hirundineus
Lilac-breasted Roller                   Coracias caudata
Broad-billed Roller                     Eurystomus glaucurus
**Purple Roller                         Eurystomus azureus
Red-billed Hornbill                     Tockus erythrorhynchus
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill         Tockus leucomelas
**Crowned Hornbill                      Tockus alboterminatus
African Gray Hornbill                   Tockus nasutus
Southern Ground-Hornbill                Bucorvus leadbeateri
**Cardinal Woodpecker                   Dendropicos fuscescens
**Bearded Woodpecker                    Dendropicos namaquus
**Lesser Gray Shrike                    Lanius minor
Tropical Boubou                         Laniarius aethiopicus
Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike)       Laniarius atrococcineus
White Helmetshrike                      Prionops plumatus
Glossy Starling                         Lamprotornis nitens
Red-billed Oxpecker                     Buphagus erythrorhynchus
Lesser Striped-Swallow                  Hirundo abyssinica
**Rufous-chested Swallow                Hirundo semirufa
**Tawny-flanked Prinia                  Prinia subflava
**Gray-backed Camaroptera (Warbler)     Camaroptera brevicaudata
**Cape (Long-billed) Crombec            Sylvietta rufescens
Arrow-marked Babbler                    Turdoides jardineii
Blue Waxbill                            Uraeginthus angolensis
**Shaft-tailed Whydah                   Vidua regia
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver               Bubalornis niger
Red-billed Quelea                       Quelea quelea
**Black-throated Canary                 Serinus atrogularis
Golden-breasted Bunting                 Emberiza flaviventris

November 19-21: Bulawayo

We returned to Camp Amalinda, where we enjoyed a voluntary respite from game viewing. It was lovely to sit in the lounge and read; relax by the pool overlooking the beautiful scenery; take leisurely walks.

Botswana

November 21-24: Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Our guide from Zimbabwe joined forces with 3 other guides from Botswana to learn the parks and camps there. He is expanding his business into Botswana, so this was exploration for him, as well as for us. Our first park was the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, which is part of the Kalahari Desert. The weather was 70°F in the early morning to 95°F at mid-afternoon. Skies were partly cloudy. We saw 45 species of birds (15 lifers). We also saw some interesting animals. We are glad that we got to spend a couple of days here, but that is enough. The terrain is very arid and just what I expected from a desert. Well, maybe there was a little more vegetation than I had anticipated. It is not our favorite locale, partly because it is not nearly as pretty as some of the other parks.

Ostrich                                 Struthio camelus
Cattle Egret                            Bubulcus ibis
Yellow-billed Kite                      Milvus aegyptius
Lappet-faced Vulture                    Torgos tracheliotus
Black-chested Snake-Eagle               Circaetus pectoralis
Bateleur                                Terathopius ecaudatus
**Montagu's Harrier                     Circus pygargus
Dark Chanting-Goshawk                   Melierax metabates
**Pale Chanting-Goshawk                 Melierax canorus
Gabar Goshawk                           Melierax gabar
Secretary-bird                          Sagittarius serpentarius
**Greater Kestrel                       Falco rupicoloides
Kori Bustard                            Ardeotis kori
Red-crested Bustard (Korhaan)           Eupodotis ruficrista
Black-bellied Bustard (Korhaan)         Eupodotis melanogaster
Common Sandpiper                        Tringa hypoleucos
**Temminck's Courser                    Cursorius temminckii
**Caspian Plover                        Charadrius asiaticus
Crowned Lapwing (Plover)                Vanellus coronatus
Burchell's Sandgrouse                   Pterocles burchelli
Cape Turtle Dove                        Streptopelia capicola
Namaqua Dove                            Oena capensis
**Common (European) Swift               Apus apus
**Blue-cheeked Bee-eater                Merops persicus
European Bee-eater                      Merops apiaster
Lilac-breasted Roller                   Coracias caudata
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill         Tockus leucomelas
White-browed Robin                      Poecilodryas superciliosa
Fork-tailed Drongo                      Dicrurus adsimilis
**Cape (Black) Crow                     Corvus capensis
Pied Crow                               Corvus albus
Lesser Gray Shrike                      Lanius minor
Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike)       Laniarius atrococcineus
Glossy Starling                         Lamprotornis nitens
Mariqua (Marico) Flycatcher             Bradornis mariquensis
**Southern Anteater-Chat                Myrmecocichla formicivora
**Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler           Parisoma subcaeruleum
**Ashy Tit                              Melaniparus cinerascens
**Clapper Lark                          Mirafra apiata
**Fawn-colored Lark                     Mirafra africanoides
**Gray-backed Sparrow-Lark (Finchlark)  Eremopterix verticalis
**Red-capped Lark                       Calandrella cinerea
Scaly-feathered Finch                   Sporopipes squamifrons
Southern Masked-Weaver                  Ploceus velatus
Red-billed Quelea                       Quelea quelea

November 24-28: Moremi Game Reserve

This is one of the world's greatest parks for game and scenery viewing, and we did get some awesome sights. This was our third visit to this park, and the animals continue to astound us. Among our activities here was a search for the campsites that are open to only tour operators from Botswana who have the proper credentials. Even though our Botswana guides had them, we opted to stay in a public camping area, because of logistical problems with 2 large vehicles (one for touring, one for support materials and staff). Three of the men had GPS with them, which is what they used to locate and mark each campsite.

Our most memorable experience occurred in this park. We went to investigate the carcass of an elephant that we had seen the previous day. When we got to the site, a male lion emerged from the bush and walked toward our vehicle. He stopped about 10 yards from the side of the vehicle and roared! It was so close, deep and loud that we could feel it in the marrow of our bones! He was answered by another male lion as he emerged from the bush and walked up to the lion standing by our vehicle. He proceeded to lie down about 15 yards in back of us. The 2 of them continued to roar back and forth to each other for about 5 minutes. What a sound in stereo!! Then they got up and walked casually back into the bush. A third male lion came out from a different direction, ran toward the carcass to chase off the vultures that had gathered at the feast, walked around the carcass as if claiming his property, and ran back into the woods, while a fourth male chased a female lion in the distance!

Habitat includes floodplains, riparian forest and savannah woodlands. The daytime weather for our stay here ranged from 65 to 100°F; mostly cloudy with thunder and lightning (but no rain) to clear and sunny; light to moderate winds. We saw 103 species of birds (13 lifers).

Ostrich                                 Struthio camelus
African Darter                          Anhinga rufa
White-faced Whistling-Duck              Dendrocygna viduata
Egyptian Goose                          Alopochen aegyptiacus
Spur-winged Goose                       Plectropterus gambensis
Comb Duck (Knob-billed)                 Sarkidiornis melanotos
**Yellow-billed Duck                    Anas undulata
Red-billed Duck (Teal)                  Anas erythrorhyncha
Hottentot Teal                          Anas hottentota
**Slaty Egret                           Egretta vinaceigula
Black Heron (Egret)                     Egretta ardesiaca
Great White Egret                       Casmerodius  albus
Little Egret                            Egretta garzetta
Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret      Mesophoyx intermedia
Gray Heron                              Ardea cinerea
Cattle Egret                            Bubulcus ibis
Squacco Heron                           Ardeola ralloides
Rufous-bellied Heron                    Ardeola rufiventris
Hamerkop                                Scopus umbretta
Sacred Ibis                             Threskiornis aethiopicus
African Spoonbill                       Platalea alba
**Woolly-necked Stork                   Ciconia episcopus
Saddle-billed Stork                     Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Marabou Stork                           Leptoptilos crumeniferus
Yellow-billed Kite                      Milvus aegyptius
African Fish-Eagle                      Haliaeetus vocifer
Hooded Vulture                          Necrosyrtes monachus
White-backed Vulture                    Gyps africanus
White-headed Vulture                    Trigonoceps occipitalis
Black-chested Snake-Eagle               Circaetus pectoralis
Bateleur                                Terathopius ecaudatus
Tawny Eagle                             Aquila rapax
Martial Eagle                           Polemaetus bellicosus
Helmeted Guineafowl                     Numida meleagris
Crested Francolin                       Francolinus sephaena
Red-billed Francolin                    Francolinus adspersus
Swainson's Francolin                    Francolinus swainsonii
Black Crake                             Amaurornis flavirostra
Wattled Crane                           Grus carunculatus
African Jacana                          Actophilornis africanus
**Lesser Jacana                         Microparra capensis
Common Greenshank                       Tringa nebularia
Wood Sandpiper                          Tringa glareola
Common Sandpiper                        Tringa hypoleucos
Ruff                                    Philomachus pugnax
Black-winged Stilt                      Himantopus himantopus
**Long-toed Lapwing (Plover)            Vanellus crassirostris
Blacksmith Plover                       Vanellus armatus
Crowned Lapwing (Plover)                Vanellus coronatus
**African Skimmer                       Rynchops flavirostris
Double-banded Sandgrouse                Pterocles bicinctus
African Mourning Dove                   Streptopelia decipiens
Cape Turtle Dove                        Streptopelia capicola
Red-eyed Dove                           Streptopelia semitorquata
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove               Turtur chalcospilos
Meyer's Parrot                          Poicephalus meyeri
Gray Lourie                             Corythaixoides concolor
Coppery-tailed Coucal                   Centropus cupreicaudus
Senegal Coucal                          Centropus senegalensis
Striped Cuckoo                          Tapera naevia
Giant Eagle-Owl                         Bubo lacteus
Pearl-spotted Owlet                     Glaucidium perlatum
African Palm-Swift                      Cypsiurus parvus
**Woodland Kingfisher                   Halcyon senegalensis
Pied Kingfisher                         Ceryle rudis
Little Bee-eater                        Merops pusillus
**Madagascar (Olive) Bee-eater          Merops superciliosus
Southern Carmine Bee-eater              Merops nubicoides
Lilac-breasted Roller                   Coracias caudata
Broad-billed Roller                     Eurystomus glaucurus
African Hoopoe                          Upupa africana
Red-billed Woodhoopoe                   Phoeniculus purpureus
Red-billed Hornbill                     Tockus erythrorhynchus
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill         Tockus leucomelas
African Gray Hornbill                   Tockus nasutus
Southern Ground-Hornbill                Bucorvus leadbeateri
Crested Barbet                          Trachyphonus vaillantii
Bennett's Woodpecker                    Campethera bennettii
**Golden-tailed Woodpecker              Campethera abingoni
Bearded Woodpecker                      Dendropicos namaquus
African Paradise-Flycatcher             Terpsiphone viridis
Fork-tailed Drongo                      Dicrurus adsimilis
Red-backed Shrike                       Lanius collurio
Long-tailed Shrike                      Lanius schach
Black-backed Puffback                   Dryoscopus cubla
White Helmetshrike                      Prionops plumatus
**Chinspot Batis                        Batis molitor
Glossy Starling                         Lamprotornis nitens
Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling      Lamprotornis chalybaeus
**Burchell's Glossy-Starling            Lamprotornis australis
Meves's Long-tailed Starling            Lamprotornis mevesii
Yellow-billed Oxpecker                  Buphagus africanus
Red-billed Oxpecker                     Buphagus erythrorhynchus
Arnot's Chat                            Thamnolaea arnotti
Common (Black-eyed) Bulbul              Pycnonotus barbatus
Gray-backed Camaroptera (Warbler)       Camaroptera brevicaudata
Cape (Long-billed) Crombec              Sylvietta rufescens
**White-rumped Babbler                  Turdoides leucopygius
**Southern Pied-Babbler                 Turdoides bicolor
Arrow-marked Babbler                    Turdoides jardineii
Brown Firefinch                         Lagonosticta nitidula
Blue Waxbill                            Uraeginthus angolensis
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver               Bubalornis niger

November 28-30: Nxai Pan

Nxai Pan is also desert ecosystem, but prettier than Central Kalahari. We had rain while here, but it didn't interfere with our game drives. It did make for some interesting skies and scenes after the storms. Habitat is fossil lake bed covered with grass and islands of trees. We had only one full day here, during which we had some moderately heavy rain and 70°F. We saw 27 species of birds (3 lifers).

Ostrich                                 Struthio camelus
Red-billed Duck (Teal)                  Anas erythrorhyncha
Black-chested Snake-Eagle               Circaetus pectoralis
Pale Chanting-Goshawk                   Melierax canorus
Steppe Eagle                            Aquila nipalensis
Kori Bustard                            Ardeotis kori
White-quilled Bustard (Korhaan)         Eupodotis afraoides
Wood Sandpiper                          Tringa glareola
Spotted Thick-knee                      Burhinus capensis
Crowned Lapwing (Plover)                Vanellus coronatus
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater                  Merops persicus
Madagascar (Olive) Bee-eater            Merops superciliosus
Pied Crow                               Corvus albus
Red-backed Shrike                       Lanius collurio
Long-tailed Shrike                      Lanius schach
Lesser Gray Shrike                      Lanius minor
Three-streaked Tchagra                  Tchagra jamesi
Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike)       Laniarius atrococcineus
Wattled Starling                        Creatophora cinerea
**Red-eyed Bulbul                       Pycnonotus brunneus
**Rufous-naped Lark                     Mirafra africana
Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver               Bubalornis niger
Scaly-feathered Finch                   Sporopipes squamifrons
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver             Plocepasser mahali
Southern Masked-Weaver                  Ploceus velatus
Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird                Nectarinia mariquensis
**Rock Bunting                          Emberiza cia

November 30 - December 3: Bulawayo

For the end of this spectacular trip, we rested at Camp Amalinda in Matopos, on the south side of Bulawayo. This was truly a trip to remember! We are looking forward to our fourth visit to this same area in a couple of years. If anyone wishes further details, please feel free to contact me. All I gave in this report is a skeleton of the excitement and adventure that we experienced.

Other Critters Seen in Zimbabwe and Botswana between October 29 and December 4, 1999

Banded Mongoose
Hartebeest
Sable
Bat-eared Fox
Hippopotamus
Scrub Hare
Black Rhinoceros
Honey Badger
Side-striped Jackal
Black-backed Jackal
Hyena
Slender Mongoose
Blue Wildebeest
Impala
Springbok
Bushbuck
Impala
Steenbok
Cape Buffalo
Klipspringer
Suricate
Chacma Baboon
Kudu
Tree Squirrel
Crocodile
Leopard
Tsessebe
Crocodile
Lions
Vervet Monkey
Duiker
Nile Monitor
Warthogs
Dwarf Mongoose
Red Lechwe
Waterbuck
Elephant
Reedbuck
White Rhinoceros
Gemsbok (Oryx)
Wildcat
Giraffe
Roan
Yellow Mongoose
Ground Squirrel
Rock Dassie (Hyrax)
Zebra

Return to trip reports.


This page served with permission of the author by Urs Geiser; ugeiser@xnet.com; February 11, 1999