Return to trip reports.Inasmuch as we had a few extra days to spend in central Europe in mid-July, 1997, we decided to visit the Karsiborska Kepa Nature Reserve in the Swiny Estuary in far NW Poland, near the Baltic Sea and the German border. It is the first reserve of OTOP, the Polish Society for the Protection of Birds, established in 1995 to protect a major breeding ground of the Aquatic Warbler as well as other wetland species. It is also a good area for White-tailed Eagle, another species we wanted to see.
We wrote to OTOP for information in early 1997, but before receiving a response, we learned via the Travigator of the Polish Bird Service run by Maciej Zimowski, who arranges hotel bookings and guide services. Maciej assured us he could book us into a decent nearby hotel in Miedzyzdroje and arrange a suitable guide from Szczecin. Miedzyzdroje is the nearest readily accessible town with a full range of services, ca. 15 km from the reserve; Swinoujscie, although nearer the reserve, is situated on an island accessible only by ferry, and hence inconvenient. Miedzyzdroje is a small but bustling seaside resort with one major tourist hotel, the Amber Baltic, readily bookable by any travel agent. Maciej booked us into the less grand but somewhat cheaper and perfectly acceptable Hotel Slavia. In fact, there are many places to stay in Miedzyzdroje, and it should not be a problem to secure accommodations upon arrival before the height of the holiday season begins in late June.
We left Berlin in the late afternoon on 15 July in a Budget (Sixt) hire car. Most companies in Western Europe won't allow their cars to be taken into Poland or other eastern European countries, but Sixt would for certain models. We reached Miedzyzdroje (ca. 250 km) in about 3+ hrs. Only one person associated with the Hotel Slavia spoke English, but fortunately he was present when we arrived. The next morning, our guide, Witold Wronski, arrived by train about 8:15 am. He was an interesting fellow, a part-time field ornithologist, who spoke good English and knew the local birdlife very well. We went directly to Karsiborska Kepa, reached by driving west towards the main ferry to central Swinoujscie, then turning south at a small sign to Karsibor just east of the ferry queue. Karsibor is an elongated village across a 1-lane bridge; a sign for the nature reserve is at a road fork about 4 km from the main turnoff. At the fork, bear left for 200 m, and then turn left at another small sign down a track to a small carpark across a short bridge. Witold took us down a footpath towards the southern end of the reserve, then through the reeds to an open area of sedge, where he quickly located a still-singing pair of Aquatic Warblers. We also had many Reed, Sedge, and Marsh Warblers in the area.
We spent all morning at the reserve, then started seeking eagles along the shore of Karsibor island, and then back towards Miedzyzdroje and southward along the east side of the estuary to a hilltop vantage point behind the church in the village of Lubin. Although we didn't find any eagles, we saw a nice variety of local birds, and I learned many good places to look. Our main meal was at the pub across from the Hotel. The next day, on our own, we returned to the Lubin vantage point in the early morning and soon spotted an adult White-tailed Eagle perched atop a distant power pylon. We quickly drove as close as we could near the village of Wicko, and watched the eagle at leisure both perched and later flying off. Then we did more birding and hiking in Wolinski National Park, which abuts Miedzyzdroje. We ate our main meal in the nice Astoria Restaurant next to the hotel. Because of deteriorating weather, we left early the next day to return to Berlin. We were slightly ahead of the R. Oder flood reaching the rivermouth area, and we don't know the consequences.
We enjoyed our little sojourn in Poland and found Miedzyzdroje a pleasant and friendly place to visit. Very little English is spoken, more German, but in fact not many non-Poles seem to visit here. There were some financial irregularities in our dealings with the Polish Bird Service, which I will disclose privately, but otherwise we had no problems and much good luck with the birds and Witold Wronski as a local expert. A complete trip list for the 2+ day visit follows:
Grebe, Great Crested Podiceps cristatus
Cormorant, Great Phalacrocorax carbo
Heron, Gray Ardea cinerea
Swan, Mute Cygnus olor
Goose, Graylag Anser anser
Teal, Green-winged Anas crecca
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Garganey Anas querquedula
Gadwall Anas strepera
Pochard, Common Aythya ferina
Duck, Tufted Aythya fuligula
Kite, Red Milvus milvus
Eagle, White-tailed Haliaeetus albicilla
Harrier, Hen Circus cyaneus
Harrier, Montagu's Circus pygargus
Harrier, Marsh Circus aeruginosus
Goshawk, Northern Accipiter gentilis
Kestrel, Common Falco tinnunculus
Coot, Common Fulica atra
Lapwing, Northern Vanellus vanellus
Greenshank, Common Tringa nebularia
Sandpiper, Green Tringa ochropus
Snipe, Common Gallinago gallinago
Gull, Black-headed Larus ridibundus
Gull, Mew Larus canus
Gull, Herring Larus argentatus
Gull, Great Black-backed Larus marinus
Dove, Rock Columba livia
Pigeon, Wood Columba palumbus
Dove, Collared Streptopelia decaocto
Swift, Common Apus apus
Woodpecker, Great Spotted Dendrocopos major
Skylark, Eurasian Alauda arvensis
Martin, Sand Riparia riparia
Swallow, Barn Hirundo rustica
Martin, House Delichon urbica
Jay, Eurasian Garrulus glandarius
Magpie, Black-billed Pica pica
Crow, Hooded Corvus cornix
Tit, Crested Parus cristatus
Tit, Great Parus major
Nuthatch, Wood Sitta europaea
Wren, Winter Troglodytes troglodytes
Warbler, Aquatic Acrocephalus paludicola
Warbler, Sedge Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Warbler, Reed Acrocephalus scirpaceus
Warbler, Marsh Acrocephalus palustris
Warbler, Willow Phylloscopus trochilus
Chiffchaff, Common Phylloscopus collybita
Whitethroat, Greater Sylvia communis
Flycatcher, Spotted Muscicapa striata
Robin, European Erithacus rubecula
Redstart, Black Phoenicurus ochruros
Blackbird, Eurasian Turdus merula
Thrush, Song Turdus philomelos
Thrush, Mistle Turdus viscivorus
Tit, Bearded Panurus biarmicus
Wagtail, Yellow Motacilla flava
Wagtail, White Motacilla alba
Pipit, Tawny Anthus campestris
Shrike, Red-backed Lanius collurio
Starling, Common Sturnus vulgaris
Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella
Bunting, Reed Emberiza schoeniclus
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
Rosefinch, Common Carpodacus erythrinus
Linnet, Eurasian Carduelis cannabina
Greenfinch, European Carduelis chloris
Sparrow, House Passer domesticus