Trip Report: Indonesia, August 1-18, 1997

We decided to go on King Bird Tours Lesser Sundas Tour because it would allow us to realize two of our long-time dreams. Nancy's was to see a Komodo Dragon, and Allen's was to see Indonesian birds. This tour provided an ideal way to do both, although budget and time constraints prevented us from participating in the full three week tour. The tour began in Bali and went to Sumbawa (briefly), Komodo, and Flores Islands. We skipped the last week, which went to Timor and Sumba, and added a short tour of Bali at the beginning to give us an opportunity to find Bali Myna and a few other Java/Bali endemics.

Day 1, Friday, August 1

We tried to sleep as late as we could to begin adjusting our internal clocks for Bali time, which is 12 hours different from Detroit. Our flight from Detroit departed on time at 1:30 pm and, after a short layover in Chicago, arrived in Los Angeles at 4:30 pm local time. We found the Garuda Airlines counter and found out that our flight was delayed 1 1/2 hours, and was now departing at 11:59 pm. We checked our bag at the counter when it opened at 6:30, along with a bunch of other people, then went and had dinner.

Day 2, Saturday, August 2

Our Garuda flight didn't take off until 12:20, but not bad considering the distance we had to go. After a 5 1/2 hour flight to Honolulu and a 1 hour layover there, we were on our way again at around 4:15 am Honolulu time, for the 11 1/4 hour flight to Denpassar, Bali.

Day 3, Sunday, August 3

The day changed in-flight as we crossed the International Date Line, followed soon after by the crossing of the Equator. We arrived only 45 minutes later than the original schedule, at 9:15 am in Denpassar. Ben King met us at the airport and we rode the short distance to the Santika Beach Hotel, where we met three other people, two from the previous tour and one that would also be continuing with us to the Lesser Sundas. We had to leave right away, with our guide Guna and a driver, in order to make our scheduled trip in Bali Barat NP for the Bali Myna. We got to the boat dock a few miles east of Gilimanuk at 2 pm and finally had a quick lunch. We weren't quite prepared for what was in store for us (not to mention that we hadn't unpacked anything), as we set out in a small boat for the 4 mile trip to a remote area on the Terim peninsula. Landing was an adventure, as we had to wade about 50 yards ashore, in knee-deep water, over a dying (dead?) coral reef. Fortunately, we were successful in our quest for the myna, and we then set out for the return trip after spending about an hour ashore. At the boat dock we again had to wade ashore as the tide had gone out, but this time it was pitch dark. If we had had time to get our luggage in order, we might have brought flash lights! We went to a nice hotel, the Pondok Sari, near Garokgak about 30 minutes east of the boat dock. We settled in and washed out three days of grunge and went to dinner. We turned in around 9 pm for an attempt to get our first good nights sleep in nearly 48 hours.

Day 4, Monday, August 4

There were a few mosquitos in the room, and a gecko that was quite loudly calling, but we got a pretty sound night's sleep anyway. We returned this morning to Bali Barat NP for some land birding with our guide from yesterday, Wahyudi. By around 9:30 am it was getting pretty hot, so we returned to the hotel and checked out, and bid Wahyudi good bye. We ate lunch at a roadside restaurant at Lovina Beach (?), then headed up into the mountains to our lodging for the night near Bedugul. We checked in to the luxurious Bali Handara Country Club and went birding at the Bali Botanical Gardens for the afternoon. We had dinner at the expensive hotel restaurant.

Day 5, Tuesday, August 5

We birded some patches of forest around the country club in the morning, then departed around 11:45 am for Denpassar. We stopped at a large area of rice paddies (the only one really near the road) near Mengwi to look for Chestnut Munias and Black-winged Starling. All we found were a few Javan & Scaly-breasted Munias and 7 or 8 Javan Kingfishers. We got back to the Santika Beach Hotel at about 2:45 pm. We finally got our luggage around 3:10, got somewhat settled, and went out to the hotel lobby at 3:30 to meet the group. They weren't there, and we ended up getting "hijacked" by an over-zealous bus driver that understood no English. We birded the area around Pantus, which turned out to be the "wrong" area, but managed to find Small Blue (Cerulean) Kingfisher, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, White-headed Munia, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker, and several other species. We were worried about where the group was since we never met up with them, but did eventually find them at dinner at the hotel (they got back before we did, as we asked our replacement driver, the "hijacker" got sent home, to wait for the group until around 7 pm). They apparently had to take taxis to the site.

Day 6, Wednesday, August 6

We took an early morning flight to Bima, Sumbawa with a brief (30 minute) stop at Mataram, Lombok, where we got one life bird, Australian Pratincole, on the runway. After arriving in Bima, we had a short ride to our hotel where we rested after lunch. At 3:30 we went on a short excursion to some forest northeast of Bima to see what birds we could find. It was disturbingly quiet, although we did see a few birds. Our lifer Emerald Dove had an air gun pointed at it by a group of guys driving a really nice jeep. They didn't need to be hunting for food. Ben yelled to try and flush the dove, unsuccessfully. A guy on a motorbike happened by a few minutes later and, during the course of the conversation mentioned that he was a "forester", something of a forest ranger. When we asked him about the guys with the air gun (which is illegal, as well as hunting in the protection forest), his English got worse and all he could reply was "no hunting here" and rode on. We returned to the hotel and had dinner at 7 pm.

Day 7, Thursday, August 7

This morning was a very early start, 3:15 am, in order to make the drive to Sape in time to catch the boat to Komodo. Allen's "bug", which he had apparently gotten from the good restaurant in Bali, and which caused him mild discomfort all day yesterday, seemed to be cleared up. We arrived at Sape harbor at 6:00 am and waited for our boat to be prepared. We birded the harbor in the mean time, and also discovered that our dramamine was somehow missing! We were well-stocked with peppermint candies, so we were hopeful that the seas wouldn't be too rough as we headed out at 6:45 am. We took a southern route that was more sheltered and spent less time in the often rough and treacherous Sape Strait. We arrived at the Komodo Island Visitor's Center at around 12:30 and some of us went ashore to begin exploring in the heat of the day. Many birds were also apparently sheltering from the heat as we had good looks at several species, including the endangered Yellow-crested Cockatoo, not to mention our first looks at the legendary Komodo Dragons, the largest lizards in the world at 10 feet and 300 pounds. The group went for a bird walk at 3:30, arriving back at the beach at dark (6:45 pm) and low tide! We had to wade out (again!) to a smaller boat which took us out to our larger boat, where we had dinner and arranged our bunks for the night.

Day 8, Friday, August 8

We were up at 5 am and prepared to wade ashore after breakfast. Fortunately, the tide had come back in enough so the boat could dock and we were off on another bird walk to the old Komodo Dragon feeding area. They haven't fed the dragons in about 2 years now, as they were getting fat and lazy from this ritual, but a few still hang around the site, just in case! They really are patient! At 10 am we departed for the 4 hour crossing to Labuhanbajo, Flores, through numerous islands and islets. No deep, treacherous water on this part of the route. We arrived in Labuhanbajo around 2 pm and went to our hotel for some rest and a shower. We took an afternoon trip to some forest northeast of the town for birding and owling. We briefly saw a Wallace's Scops-Owl fly overhead after responding to tape, and heard a Moluccas Scops-Owl calling distantly and briefly. We returned to the hotel at 7:45 pm for an 8 pm dinner.

Day 9, Saturday, August 9

We returned early this morning to the same patch of forest visited yesterday afternoon, in hopes of finding Wallace's Hanging Parrot and the surprisingly secretive Flores Crow. The parrot was rediscovered here two years ago, and as recently as five years ago the species was feared extinct. We returned to the hotel for lunch, then went out again for an afternoon of birding and an evening of owling, being completely unsuccessful in the latter this time, but getting good, brief looks at the Flores Crow. It was a nice dark sky, even with the bright crescent moon, and the Southern Cross, Milky Way, and Magellanic Clouds were easily visible to the naked eye.

Day 10, Sunday, August 10

We got up earlier this morning (4 am) to try and get farther up the same road as the past two days. This area was higher in elevation (about 1500') than where we had been the last two days (about 1000'). We finally succeeded in finding the Wallace's Hanging Parrot, with a total of at least six watched for some time, including nice scope views. Again, we returned to the hotel for lunch, and again set out for an afternoon of birding and owling. We did get fairly good looks at a Moluccan Scops-Owl that sat high up in a tree for us. On the way back to the hotel, our driver hit a small cow! The poor beast limped away, probably suffering a cracked rib or two. We had a late dinner at 9 pm.

Day 11, Monday, August 11

We were up early this morning departing the hotel at 5 am for a long drive. We stopped at a track near a microwave tower at around 6:30, 36 km from Labuhanbajo, for a morning of birding. Among several birds we found here was the incredibly rare Flores Monarch, which was discovered in 1971 and not seen again until 1993. We were the first tour group to ever see this bird! After lunch along the road, we continued on our long drive to Ruteng, arriving at the hotel at 5:30 pm, with dinner at 6:30.

Day 12, Tuesday, August 12

After a 5 am breakfast we drove up a steep, narrow, rough dirt road about 10 miles south of Ruteng and birded the road from 5000' down to about 3700'. This area is known as Golo Lusang. There was a lot of bird activity, for a change, and we found many new birds. The most conspicuous bird, due to its loud voice, was the Bare-throated Whistler, endemic to Sumbawa and Flores. We returned to the hotel for lunch, then went southeast of Ruteng to Gunung Ranaka. This is an active volcano, which last erupted in 1987, and has good cloud forest along the narrow access road to the top. We tried to see a Wallace's Scops-Owl here but only heard one calling in the distance. We returned to the hotel for an 8:15 dinner.

Day 13, Wednesday, August 13

Departed the hotel at 5:30 am for another long drive. We stopped at Lake Rana Mese and viewed the water birds, as well as birding the nearby forest. Overhead we saw some of the few raptors of the trip, Bonelli's Eagle and Rufous-bellied Eagle. We arrived at our accommodations in Kisol, a Seminary, before lunch. In the early afternoon, we birded a dry forest near Gunung Pacandeki. We didn't find much during the daylight, but we finally got good looks at a Wallace's Scops-Owl at night.

Day 14, Thursday, August 14

At 5:30 am we headed south to the town of Nangarewa on the south coast of Flores. The scrubby forest here used to have Flores Green Pigeon, but apparently is now too beat up to have much of anything. At a freshwater lagoon back from the beach we found a few interesting birds, including Malaysian Plover and the Indonesian endemic Sunda Teal. We had lunch at 11 am and then set our on another long drive (6 hours) to Ende. There weren't many birds on this 200 km drive and the small jeeps were quite cramped in the back seats, designed apparently for people of Indonesian proportions, not Americans! The hotel Ben had planned for us to stay was full, so we had to look for another. The Hotel Safari had rooms available, although the ambiance was something like sleeping adjacent to a bus station. The bathroom had a pit toilet and a "traditional" Indonesian bath. We finally found our dramamine this evening.

Day 15, Friday, August 15

We departed at 6 am for another long drive (4 hours, 150 km) to Maumere. We stopped briefly at Kelimutu and did the tourist thing. This is a very scenic volcano with three adjacent different-colored lakes. We continued east, hoping to luck into a Flores Green Pigeon, but not succeeding. We dropped the group off for their 2 pm flight to Timor, then headed into town to re-re-re-confirm our flight to Denpassar tomorrow morning. We got a room at the Permata Sari Hotel (Rp 50,000) with air conditioning and shower (and a perch-type toilet). We frittered away the rest of the day on the beach and repacking for tomorrows flight. We had dinner in the hotel's restaurant. Very slow service.

Day 16, Saturday, August 16

We were up at 6 am, getting ready to leave. We discovered a thumb-sized cockroach in the room, surprisingly the first of the trip. We've certainly encountered them more consistently on our Latin American travels. We checked on the breakfast (included with the room) at 6:20, but apparently it was already finished! The only option was to order breakfast, and we didn't really have time given how long it was likely to take based on last nights service. We got our flight which departed at 8:20, with a 40 minute stop in Bima, Sumbawa,. We flew over Komodo Island, but views (and photography) were hampered by the scuzzy windows on the plane. We landed in Denpassar at 11:15 and were met by Guna and a driver. He drove us to the Santika Beach Hotel by 11:30, only to find that our room wasn't ready. They told us it would be by 1:00. At 1:20 they gave us an alternate room with two twin beds. Guna had arranged with the driver to pick us up at 3:30 to head out to Suwung, the "right" place that Ben and the group had gone without us the first day. We arrived and walked along the cement embankment of the channel and out to the vast mud flats and mangrove. We wandered around, eventually finding all we were looking for (Javan Plover, Kentish Plover, Greater Sandplover, White-breasted Water-hen, and luckily a couple of Ruddy-breasted Crakes dashing across a mudflat into mangroves). This trip cost us Rp 40,000 (about $16 U.S.), a little more than a taxi might have, but we had a personal driver and a nice car with air conditioning. We returned to the hotel around 6:45 to shower and go to dinner.

Day 17, Sunday, August 17

We got up at 5:45 for some final birding and photography around the hotel. Today is Indonesian Independence Day (1945). Surprisingly, we found one more life bird, a male Christmas Island Frigatebird, circling around over the hotel! We also found a roost of fruit bats, and saw a Flying Dragon lizard glide from one palm tree to another. We got good looks at Bar-winged Prinia, Long-tailed Shrike, and Olive-backed Sunbird. After breakfast, we did our final packing and met our driver in front of the hotel at 11:00 am. Our flight left almost on-time, at 1:30 pm for Jakarta, an hour and a half flight that we'll have to make up again! We birded the Jakarta airport from the gate they had us confined to, finding six species, including Bar-winged Prinias hopping on the open grass of the gardens. Our flight to Los Angeles left around 3:30 pm Jakarta time (1 hour earlier than Bali) and we hunkered down for the 12 3/4 hour flight to Honolulu. We arrived in Honolulu at 11:20 am Sunday, local time (due to the time-travel effect of crossing back over the International Date Line). After about a 45 minute layover, we reboarded for the 5 hour flight to Los Angeles, arriving at 8:15 pm. We cleared immigration and customs, and checked in for our American Airlines flight, departing at 11:59 pm.

Day 18, Monday, August 18

After an equipment change, our flight finally got underway at 12:15 am. We connected through Chicago and arrived in Detroit at 8:45 am. We got home around 9:30 and spent the rest of the day trying not to fall asleep!

Bird List

207 species total
* = lifer (159)
Unusual or rare species are underlined.

1. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) -- 2
   Both were on Flores, one at Lake Rana Mese and one at Nangarewa.

2. Bulwer's Petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) -- 1
   Flew in front of the bow, fairly close, in the Sape Strait on the way to Komodo Island.

3. Great Frigatebird (Fregata minor) -- 3
   Two were off the southeast side of Komodo I. and one was offshore of Maumere, Flores.

4. *Lesser Frigatebird (Fregata ariel) -- 9
   Most were off of eastern Sumbawa and western Flores. One was at Kuta, Bali on our last day.

5. *Christmas Island Frigatebird (Fregata andrewsi) -- 1
   Nearly ENDEMIC to Indonesian waters. An adult male flew over the hotel at Kuta, Bali, on our last morning.

6. Little Pied Cormorant (Phalacrocorax melanoleucos) -- 7
   Four were at Lake Rana Mese and three were at Nangarewa, Flores.

7. *Sunda Teal (Anas gibberifrons) -- 25
   ENDEMIC to Indonesia and Andaman Islands (latter form is also distinct, may be split). All were on the freshwater lagoon at Nangarewa, where we had good looks at the forehead humps of several males.

8. Pacific Black Duck (Anas superciliosa) -- 250
   All were on Lake Rana Mese, Flores.

9. White-faced Heron (Egretta novaehollandiae) -- 3
   Seen in trees and rice paddies near Labuhanbajo, Flores.

10. *Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) -- 43
    Most were on Bali, including in rice paddies on our first day. A few were near Labuhanbajo, Flores.

11. *Pacific Reef-Egret (Egretta sacra) -- 9
    Seen at Sape Harbor and from the boat to and around Komodo Island. One at Nangarewa, Flores and one near Suwung, Bali. All but two were the white morph.

12. Intermediate Egret (Egretta intermedia) -- 40
    Most were on Bali near Pantus and Suwung. Also in Sape Harbor, Sumbawa and on Flores.

13. Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea) -- 4
    One near Pantus, Bali, and three at the back of a rice paddy near Bima, Sumbawa.

14. *Great-billed Heron (Ardea sumatrana) -- 2
    One flew in front of the boat at the south end of Komodo Island and the other landed briefly on the beach in the harbor there. Specializes in feeding along wave-washed coral reefs and exposed tidepools.

15. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) -- 5
    The first one was at the Lembor plains on Flores and the remaining birds were at Suwung, Bali.

16. Great Egret (Ardea alba) -- 39
    Most were seen coming to roost near Pantus and Suwung, Bali. Others were near Bima, Sumbawa.

17. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis) -- 20
    All were seen coming to roost near Pantus, Bali.

18. *Javan Pond-Heron (Ardeola speciosa) -- 240
    Seen along the road in rice paddies on Bali, and coming to roost in the mangroves near Pantus and Suwung. Three in Sape Harbor and 30 near Bima were the only ones on Sumbawa, and the birds near Labuhanbajo, Flores were possibly the first recorded from the island.

19. Striated Heron (Butorides striatus) -- 6
    Three were in the freshwater lagoon at Nangarewa, Flores, and singles were at Pantus and Suwung, Bali, and on Komodo Island.

20. Wooly-necked Stork (Ciconia episcopus) -- 9
    All were in rice paddies in an area near Lembor, Flores, known as the Lembor plains.

21. *Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus) -- 2
    Seen briefly close by a ridgetop at the Puarldo telecommunications station near Bambor, Flores. Both were dark morph, and the distinctive tail pattern was seen.

22. Black-shouldered Kite (Elanus caeruleus) -- 2
    One was at Bali Barat NP and the other was at the Lembor plains, Flores.

23. *Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus) -- 1
    Only on Komodo Island. Much less numerous than we expected.

24. White-bellied Sea-Eagle (Haliaetus leucogaster) -- 13
    Two were at Bali Barat NP and several were seen from the boat ride from Sumbawa to Komodo to Flores. One was perched in a tree along the road east of Ende, Flores.

25. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) -- 2
    One was northeast of Bima, Sumbawa, and the other was at the tele-communications station near Bambor, Flores.

26. *Crested Serpent-Eagle (Spilornis cheela) -- 2
    One seen and heard calling to another bird heard calling out of sight. Bali Barat NP.

27. *Gray (Variable) Goshawk (Accipiter novaehollandiae) -- 5
    One on Sumbawa, two on Komodo, and two on Flores were well seen. A fairly tame raptor. King proposes splitting this endemic form into Sunda Goshawk.

28. *Bonelli's Eagle (Hieraetus fasciatus) -- 2
    One seen well as it flew toward us, then circled overhead, at Lake Rana Mese, Flores. Another seen briefly from the jeep on the drive from Kisol to Ende.

29. *Rufous-bellied Eagle (Hieraeetus kienerii) -- 2
    Both were at Lake Rana Mese, Flores. One was over the forest before we got to the lake and the other was circling overhead with the Bonelli's Eagle mentioned above.

30. *Changeable Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus cirrhatus) -- 1
    A black morph individual circling over a patch of forest at the Bali Handara Country Club near Bedugul.

31. *Spotted Kestrel (Falco moluccensis) -- 12
    ENDEMIC to Indonesia. Three were on Komodo. All remaining birds were on Flores, most often in open, unforested areas.

32. *Orange-footed Scrubfowl (Megapodius reinwardt) -- 20
    Seen well on Komodo Island. Glimpsed and heard in several locations on Flores.

33. *Green Junglefowl (Gallus varius) -- 27
    ENDEMIC to Java, Bali, and Lesser Sundas. First heard on Bali near Bedugul. Several seen well on Komodo Island. Many heard on Flores, with two seen in the road (!) briefly, ahead of our jeep northeast of Labuhanbajo.

34. Buff-banded Rail (Gallirallus philippensis) -- 1
    Seen briefly as it ran across the road in front of our jeep near Labuhanbajo, Flores.

35. *White-breasted Water-Hen (Amaurornis phoenicurus) -- 5
    All were at Suwung, Bali, on our last day.

36. *Ruddy-breasted Crake (Porzana fusca) -- 2
    Seen running between mangroves on the mudflats as dusk was approaching, on our walk near Suwung, Bali.

37. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) -- 15
    All were in Sape Harbor, Sumbawa.

38. Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata) -- 1
    With the Whimbrels in Sape Harbor.

39. Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis) -- 2
    On the mudflats in the mangroves at Suwung, Bali.

40. Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) -- 6
    All were at Suwung, Bali on our last day.

41. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) -- 20
    The first one was in a rice paddy near Mengwi, Bali. Four were at Nangarewa, Flores and 15 were at Suwung, Bali.

42. Common Sandpiper (Tringa hypoleucos) -- 43
    Seen at most areas of fresh water on Bali, Sumbawa, and Flores.

43. *Gray-tailed Tattler (Tringa brevipes) -- 4
    All were in a single group in Sape Harbor, Sumbawa.

44. *Beach Thick-knee (Burhinus giganteus) -- 6
    Three seen distantly at Bali Barat NP from the shore of the Bali Myna site, and three fairly close as flybys at the dock on Komodo Island.

45. *Australian Pratincole (Stiltia isabella) -- 1
    In a grassy area near the runway at Mataram, Lombok.

46. Snowy (*Kentish) Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) -- 20
    Very different from North American birds in appearance, behavior, and habitat (somewhat). All were seen on the mudflats at Suwung, Bali.

47. *Malaysian Plover (Charadrius peronii) -- 2
    A male and female on the sandy beach near the freshwater lagoon at Nangarewa, Flores.

48. *Javan Plover (Charadrius javensis) -- 4
    ENDEMIC to Java and Bali. Seen among the many shorebirds on the mudflats at Suwung, Bali.

49. *Mongolian (Lesser Sand-) Plover (Charadrius mongolus) -- 1
    On a roadside mudflat between the airport and our hotel in Bima, Sumbawa.

50. *Greater Sand-Plover (Charadrius leschenaultii) -- 50
    All were on the mudflats at Suwung, Bali.

51. Greater Crested Tern (Sterna bergii) -- 77
    Seen at most areas where we could view salt water on Bali, Sumbawa, Komodo, and Flores. Most numerous on the boat trip to Komodo Island.

52. Roseate Tern (Sterna dougallii) -- 1
    Flying off the beach, close by, at Nangarewa, Flores.

53. *Black-naped Tern (Sterna sumtrana) -- 102
    Seen offshore of Bali, Sumbawa, and Komodo. Most numerous on the boat trip to Komodo Island.

54. *Bridled Tern (Sterna anaethetus) -- 20
    Five were near Kelapa Island, at the eastern end of Sumbawa, and 15 were around a small islet northeast of Komodo Island.

55. Pomarine Jaeger (Stercorarius pomarinus) -- 1
    A distant, but identifiable dark morph bird in the Sape Strait on the boat trip to Komodo Island.

56. Rock Dove (Columba livia) -- 66
    Seen in most cities and towns on Bali, Sumbawa, and Flores.

57. *Metallic Pigeon (Columba vitiensis) -- 4
    All were identifiable fly-bys near Lake Rana Mese, Flores.

58. Spotted Dove (Streptopelia chinensis) -- 75
    Common on all islands. These are the first truly wild individuals of this species we've seen.

59. *Island Collared-Dove (Streptopelia bitorquata) -- 25
    ENDEMIC to Indonesian and Philippines. All were seen among the mangroves at Pantus and Suwung, Bali. More numerous at Pantus.

60. *Barred Cuckoo-Dove (Macropygia unchall) -- 1
    An identifiable fly-by at Golo Lusang Pass near Ruteng, Flores.

61. *Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove (Macropygia emiliana) -- 1
    ENDEMIC to Sumatra, N. Borneo, Lesser Sundas. Seen well, although briefly, before the group came back to see it on Komodo Island.

62. *Little Cuckoo-Dove (Macropygia ruficeps) -- 1
    Heard only. One calling at the upper end of the Bali Botanical Gardens near Bedugul. Sounds like a Ruddy Ground-Dove.

63. *Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica) -- 13
    First seen northeast of Bima, Sumbawa, where a well-heeled hunter had it in the sights of his illegal air gun in a protected forest. Others were on Komodo and Flores. Less common than we expected.

64. Zebra Dove (Geopelia striata) -- 14
    All were seen or heard in the lowlands on Bali. These are the first truly wild individuals of this species we've seen.

65. *Barred Dove (Geopelia maugeus) -- 48
    ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas and Moluccas. Most numerous on Komodo Island, with a few in lowland areas on Flores.

66. *Pink-necked Pigeon (Treron vernans) -- 35
    All were seen in lowland areas of Bali Barat NP, Bali where it appeared fairly common. Good views.

67. *Orange-breasted Pigeon (Treron bicincta) -- 1
    Good views of a female (imm. male?) on the trail in front of us at Bali Barat NP. An unexpected species.

68. *Gray-cheeked Pigeon (Treron griseicauda) -- 22
    ENDEMIC to Sumatra, Java, Bali, and Sulawesi. Seen in highland areas around Bedugul, Bali, including the Bali Handara Country Club and the Bali Botanical Gardens.

69. *Black-backed Fruit-Dove (Ptilinopus cinctus) -- 3
    ENDEMIC to Bali and the Lesser Sundas. One scoped at Golo Lusang Pass and two at Mt. Ranakah near Ruteng, Flores.

70. *Black-naped Fruit-Dove (Ptilinopus melanospila) -- 5
    ENDEMIC to Indonesia and the Philippines. All were heard, with one seen (scoped), in the higher elevation forest (1500') near Raren northeast of Labuhanbajo, Flores.

71. *Green Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula aenea) -- 57
    Commonly heard, and occasionally seen in many lower and middle elevation areas of Komodo and Flores.

72. *Dark-backed Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula lacernulata) -- 16
    ENDEMIC to Java, Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, and Flores. A few heard around Bedugul, Bali. All others were in higher elevation forest around Ruteng, Flores. A few seen well.

73. *Pied Imperial-Pigeon (Ducula bicolor) -- 12
    All were in one group that one of the guides led us to on Komodo Island. Found generally only on smaller islands throughout Indonesia to Australia.

74. *Red-cheeked Parrot (Geoffroyus geoffroyi) -- 5
    Singles seen in low to middle elevation forest on Flores. One was northeast of Labuhanbajo, one was near Bambor, and three were on Mt. Pacandeki near Kisol.

75. *Great-billed Parrot (Tanygnathus megalorhynchos) -- 16
    ENDEMIC to central Indonesia. More common than expected. All were on Flores at various areas in the forest northeast of Labuhanbajo near Raren.

76. *Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot (Loriculus pusillus) -- 11
    ENDEMIC to Java and Bali. Seen well in flowering trees at the Bali Handara Country Club near Bedugul, Bali.

77. *Wallace's Hanging-Parrot (Loriculus flosculus) -- 6
    ENDEMIC to Flores (and recently rediscovered). As recently as 5-7 years ago, this species was listed as probably extinct in several references. On our third day in the area, we finally connected with a feeding group (possibly 10 or more) at the higher elevation (1500') forest northeast of Labuhanbajo, near Raren. We even had excellent scope views of a couple of birds that came down a little lower in a nearby tree. Very few people have ever seen this species alive, and we were only Ben King's second group to see it (with much better views).

78. *Red-breasted Parakeet (Psittacula alexandri) -- 3
    All were flyovers, but one well seen, at Bali Barat NP, Bali.

79. *Yellow-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea) -- 28
    ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas and Sulawesi. All were seen on Komodo Island, which is possibly the only location within this species' entire range where it is not critically endangered.

80. Rainbow Lorikeet (Trichoglossus haematodus) -- 9
    Much less common than expected. All were seen on Flores, and were of the distinctive green-headed race (ENDEMIC to Flores), which may be split in the future.

81. *Oriental (Sunda) Cuckoo (Cuculus saturatus) -- 5
    Heard only. First ones were around Bedugul, Bali and others were around Ruteng, Flores. King suggests splitting resident Indonesian form as Sunda Cuckoo.

82. *Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Cacomantis sepulcralis) -- 4
    Mainly heard, but the one at the Bali Botanical Gardens near Bedugul provided excellent scope views. Another seen briefly near Bambor, Flores.

83. *Little Bronze-Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx minutillus) -- 1
    Komodo Island only. King thought the bird might have been a Shining Bronze-Cuckoo, but this bird had a dark eye and a small dark "mask", neither of which the former species has. We had better views of this bird than others in the group.

84. Horsfield's Bronze-Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx basalis) -- 1
    Seen briefly at Bali Barat NP on our first day.

85. *Asian Koel (Eudynamys scolopacea) -- 4
    A female seen well in the scope near Nangarewa, Flores, with a male heard calling nearby. Also heard on Komodo Island and near Raren, Flores, but the recently split Australian Koel (E. cyanocephala) also occurs widely and has a very similar (indistinguishable?) call.

86. *Lesser Coucal (Centropus bengalensis) -- 2
    An immature seen gliding below our vantage point at the Bali Myna viewpoint at Bali Barat NP and another immature flushed from a brushy area near the telecommunications tower near Bambor, Flores.

87. Barn Owl (Tyto alba) -- 1
    Seen flying away from the road one evening northeast of Labuhanbajo, Flores.

88. *Moluccan Scops-Owl (Otus magicus) -- 11
    ENDEMIC to Moluccas, Flores, and Biak Island (Irian Jaya). Most were heard, all on Flores, but a total of three were seen. Best view was the bird high in a tree along the road northeast of Labuhanbajo, Flores.

89. *Wallace's Scops-Owl (Otus silvicola) -- 3
    ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. Found on Flores only. The first one, along the road northeast of Labuhanbajo, was heard then briefly seen as it flew over our heads and landed in an undetermined location where it could not be relocated. Another was heard on Mt. Ranakah near Ruteng. The best views were of the one responding strongly at first, then rather indifferently, to our tape, along the road near Mt. Pacandeki near Kisol.

90. *Large-tailed Nightjar (Caprimulgus macrurus) -- 8
    Only seen on Flores. The first two were seen early one morning in front of our hotel in Labuhanbajo, Flores, after we had spent the previous night taping for them along a forest road! Another was eventually seen along this road near Raren. Several were heard, but none seen, along the road near Mt. Pacandeki near Kisol.

91. *Savanna Nightjar (Caprimulgus affinis) -- 8
    Seen only in the daytime when flushed from their terrestrial roosting sites. Six were at Bali Barat NP and one was at Pantus, Bali. One was flushed from an area of spiny shrubs along the beach at Nangarewa, Flores.

92. *Gray-rumped Treeswift (Hemiprocne longipennis) -- 2
    Both were flyovers in an open field at Bali Barat NP on our second morning.

93. *Glossy Swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta) -- 271
    Fairly common in highlands on Bali and throughout Komodo, Sumbawa, and Flores. Good looks at birds flying below eye level down the road near Bedugul, showing their glossy blue upperparts well.

94. *Cave Swiftlet (Collocalia linchi) -- 176
    The commonest swiftlet in lowland areas on Bali, the only island on our itinerary where this species occurs.

95. *Edible-nest Swiftlet (Collocalia fuciphaga) -- 147
    Lower numbers than previous species but more widespread, with birds noted in lowlands and highlands on Bali and Flores.

    Swiftlet sp. (Collocalia sp.) -- 470
    Many unidentified small swifts in some areas of Bali and Flores.

96. *Brown-backed Needletail (Hirundapus giganteus) -- 1
    Seen briefly along the road near Jembraha, Bali. Probably an early migrant. A very large swift that looked almost like some type of shorebird by the way it flew.

97. *Asian Palm-Swift (Cypsiurus balasiensis) -- 12
    All were on Bali, with birds always near palms (of course!). Seen near Tabanan, Gilimanuk, and Mengwi.

98. *Small Blue Kingfisher (Alcedo coerulescens) -- 7
    ENDEMIC to Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok, and Sumbawa. Sometimes called the Cerulean Kingfisher, this is a beautiful little kingfisher. We saw our first one well, as it flew down the channel near Pantus, Bali, and landed only 50 feet away. A total of 4 were seen here, and an additional 3 were seen near Suwung, Bali on our last day.

99. *Rufous-backed Kingfisher (Ceyx rufidorsa) -- 1
    Found only at Bali Barat NP, Bali. Seen briefly as it perched momentarily, then flew off through the forest giving its high-pitched call note.

100. *Javan Kingfisher (Halcyon cyanoventris) -- 11
     ENDEMIC to Java and Bali. A spectacular and stunning kingfisher. All were seen in rice paddies on Bali, with the largest number (8) found near Mengwi.

101. *Collared Kingfisher (Todiramphus chloris) -- 17
     A beautiful blue and white kingfisher with black accents. Most were on Bali, although one was heard calling on Komodo Island and a few were seen near Labuhanbajo, Flores.

102. *Sacred Kingfisher (Todiramphus sanctus) -- 20
     Seen less frequently than the previous species, but in greater numbers at each location. Most often in mangroves or coastal areas on Bali, Komodo, andFlores.

103. *White-rumped Kingfisher (Caridonax fulgidus) -- 21
     ENDEMIC to Lombok, Sumbawa, and Flores. The first one on Sumbawa provided excellent views by the roadside northeast of Bima. A couple others were well seen on Flores as well, and many more were heard calling. A neat-looking dark blue and white kingfisher with a bright red bill.

104. *Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus) -- 103
     Common in mangroves and marshes, as the Blue-cheeked Bee-eater was in Gambia. Seen on all islands, often flying high overhead.

105. Rainbow Bee-eater (Merops ornatus) -- 10
     Better views than we had in Australia in 1991. All were seen on Flores, mainly in lowland or middle elevation sites.

106. *Chestnut-headed Bee-eater (Merops leschenaulti) -- 11
     All were on Bali in on the western end of the island around Bali Barat NP. Good views.

107. *Dollarbird (Eurystomus orientalis) -- 6
     All were seen perched on exposed, high snags on the edges of open areas. Three were at Bali Barat NP and three were near Raren, Flores.

108. *Lineated Barbet (Megalaima lineata) -- 2
     Viewed in the scope, but not very close by, at Bali Barat NP, Bali.

109. *Flame-fronted Barbet (Megalaima armillaris) -- 20
     ENDEMIC to Java and Bali. All were in the vicinity of Bedugul, Bali. A common bird, but not easy to see. Very vocal. We eventually got good scope views of a couple.

110. *Coppersmith Barbet (Megalaima haemacephala) -- 7
     A distinctive race (M. h. roseus) seen (and more often heard) at Bali Barat NP on two different days. Good views of a couple.

111. *Sunda Woodpecker (Dendrocopos moluccensis) -- 9
     ENDEMIC to Malaya, Greater Sundas, and Lesser Sundas. Seen only on Flores.

112. *Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos macei) -- 5
     All were on Bali, where we had good views at Bali Barat NP. Also, one was in mangroves near Pantus. At first glance, this species looked like a Red-cockaded Woodpecker.

113. *Common Flameback (Dinopium javanense) -- 2
     A pair seen well on our second morning at Bali Barat NP.

114. *Banded Pitta (Pitta guajana) -- 1
     We finally glimpsed this beauty after luring it near with a brief piece of tape, and a malfunctioning speaker. We were lucky this worked at all! Somewhat rare on Bali.

115. *Elegant Pitta (Pitta elegans) -- 27
     ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas and Moluccas. All were on Flores. We got good views of a couple in the forest northeast of Labuhanbajo on a couple of different days, including scope views of one!

116. *Sunda Honeyeater (Lichmera lombokia) -- 32
     ENDEMIC to Lombok, Sumbawa, and Flores. All were in the higher elevation areas on Flores around Ruteng. This species didn't look like the others in its genus, as its bill was rather long and decurved.

117. *Indonesian Honeyeater (Lichmera limbata) -- 28
     ENDEMIC to Bali and Lesser Sundas. Most were in the highlands on Bali around Bedugul, where they were easily seen. One was seen on Flores near Ruteng.

118. *Helmeted Friarbird (Philemon buceroides) -- 87
     Very common and very vocal (and loud) on Komodo Island and throughout Flores.

119. *Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis) -- 15
     A few in forested areas on Bali, and on Flores.

120. *Mangrove Whistler (Pachycephala grisola) -- 4
     Heard, and seen briefly, at Bali Barat NP, Bali.

121. Golden Whistler (Pachycephala pectoralis) -- 21
     A few were on Komodo Island, with most on Flores at all elevations.

122. *Bare-throated Whistler (Pachycephala nudigula) -- 23
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. Very common and very vocal (and loud) in highlands on Flores, most near Ruteng with a few heard at Keli Mutu volcano.

123. *Pied Fantail (Rhipidura javanica) -- 19
     Common in coastal areas on Bali, such as Bali Barat NP and near Pantus and Suwung.

124. *Brown-capped Fantail (Rhipidura diluta) -- 33
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. All were seen on Flores, where they were occasionally conspicuous as they flitted after insects at eye level. The cap of this bird didn't appear to be any different in color from its back, which was a brownish gray.

125. Rufous Fantail (Rhipidura rufifrons) -- 1
     Only seen briefly along the road to Mt. Pacandeki, near Kisol, Flores.

126. *Black-naped Monarch (Hypothymis azurea) -- 21
     Encountered fairly frequently, but difficult to get a good look as they moved around a lot in the centers of trees. Eventually, we did get good looks at a couple.

127. *Asian Paradise-Flycatcher (Tersiphone paradisi) -- 4
     A female was seen briefly one day and two spectacular white-plumaged males and a female on another day northeast of Labuhanbajo, Flores.

128. *Flores Monarch (Monarcha sacerdotum) -- 4
     ENDEMIC to Flores (discovered in 1971 and not seen again for more than 20 years). Our morning spent birding at the Puarldo Telecommunications Station near Bambor was primarily in search of this species, never before seen by a tour group, and only seen, ever, by a handful of people. After we chased an adult and juvenile, which was being fed, a long way down a steep hillside, we located another pair right next to the trail!

129. *Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus) -- 10
     All were on Bali in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP.

130. *Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus) -- 2
     One seen distantly flying at the overlook for the Bali Myna at Bali Barat NP on our first day. Another seen better, but still flying over, at Bedugul, Bali.

131. *Wallacean Drongo (Dicrurus densus) -- 62
     ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas. First seen on Komodo Island, where we had our best views. Many encountered, sometimes only vocally, on Flores also.

132. *Greater Racket-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus paradiseus) -- 1
     Flushed off a steep trail at the Bali Handara Country Club, where it was seen briefly before it flew into the crown of a tall tree. The bird remained invisible and was only noted by its calls after it was flushed.

133. *Slender-billed Crow (Corvus enca) -- 1
     Seen in the field at Bali Barat NP on our second morning. Has a strange wing flap, like a South American Pionus parrot.

134. *Flores Crow (Corvus florensis) -- 13
     ENDEMIC to Flores. This small, shy forest crow was heard more often than seen. We had good views of a pair along the road northeast of Labuhanbajo.

135. *Large-billed Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos) -- 79
     Common in coastal areas. Most common on Komodo Island, where flocks were seen, but also seen on Bali and Flores.

136. White-breasted Woodswallow (Artamus leucorhynchus) -- 26
     Scattered groups seen on Bali, Komodo, and Flores.

137. *Common Iora (Aegithina tiphia) -- 27
     All were in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP. Commoner than we expected.

138. *Black-naped Oriole (Oriolus chinensis) -- 17
     A couple seen briefly on Bali. Excellent views on Komodo Island, where it was most common. A few seen on Flores.

139. Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike (Coracina novaehollandiae) -- 4
     Three were on Komodo Island and one was on Flores.

140. *Javan Cuckoo-Shrike (Coracina javensis) -- 3
     ENDEMIC to Java and Bali. All were seen in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP.

141. *Wallacean Cuckoo-Shrike (Coracina personata) -- 3
     ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas. One glimpsed briefly on Sumbawa and two seen fairly well, and calling, on Flores.

142. *White-shouldered Triller (Lalage sueurii) -- 4
     ENDEMIC to Java, Bali, Lesser Sundas, and Sulawesi. All were in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP.

143. *Small Minivet (Pericrocotus cinnamomeus) -- 9
     A flock overhead, then one seen well along a trail, at Bali Barat NP.

144. *Flores Minivet (Pericrocotus lansbergei) -- 9
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. Seen well near Bima, Sumbawa, and Labuhanbajo, Flores. Others were seen near Bambor and Kisol, Flores.

145. *Scarlet Minivet (Pericrocotus flammeus) -- 4
     All were at the Bali Handara Country Club near Bedugul, Bali.

146. *Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach) -- 8
     In open areas and at the Santika Beach Hotel, Bali.

147. *Sunda Whistling-Thrush (Myiophoneus glaucinus) -- 1
     ENDEMIC to Greater Sundas. Seen briefly at the Bali Handara County Club near Bedugul.

148. *Chestnut-capped Thrush (Zoothera interpres) -- 1
     Seen briefly in a forested area near Raren, northeast of Labuhanbajo, Flores.

149. *Chestnut-backed Thrush (Zoothera dohertyi) -- 7
     ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas. This stunning thrush was seen well near Bambor and Lake Rana Mese, Flores. Also found at Golo Lusang and Mt. Ranakah.

150. *Lesser Shortwing (Brachypteryx leucophrys) -- 16
     Heard only. All were around Bedugul, Bali, including a couple tape recorded at close range.

151. *White-browed Shortwing (Brachypteryx montana) -- 1
     A female seen on the road at Mt. Ranakah, Flores.

152. *Short-tailed Starling (Aplonis minor) -- 50
     ENDEMIC to Java, Bali, Lesser Sundas, Sulawesi, and Mindanao. Seen on Bali and Flores, with the best views near Bedugul, Bali.

153. *Asian Glossy Starling (Aplonis panayensis) -- 4
     Excellent views, showing their bright red eyes, at the Bali Handara Country Club, Bedugul.

154. *Bali Myna (Leucopsar rothschildi) -- 4
     ENDEMIC to Bali. Good views at their only remaining evening roosting site off Terim Bay in Bali Barat NP. Two were seen on the walk up to the hilltop and a third was seen flying in from a distance (on the shore). On the hilltop, two birds were seen, one close and one distant. The close bird could have been one of the previously seen individuals. Only 25 left in the wild.

155. Hill Myna (Gracula religiosa) -- 13
     All were on Flores in the forest northeast of Labuhanbajo and near Bambor. These are the first truly wild individuals of this species we've seen.

156. *Flores Jungle-Flycatcher (Rhinomyias oscillans) -- 2
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa, Flores, and Sumba. Both were seen high in the open canopy, one at Golo Lusang and one at Keli Mutu, Flores.

157. *Fulvous-chested Jungle-Flycatcher (Rhinomyias olivacea) -- 2
     Good views in the understorey in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP.

158. *Little Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula westermanni) -- 14
     Two were at the Bali Botanical Gardens, Bedugul, and the rest were on Flores. Good views at Golo Lusang. Several others heard only.

159. *Oriental Magpie-Robin (Copsychus saularis) -- 2
     Seen briefly on the edge of an open area in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP. Becoming quite rare due to capture for the cagebird trade.

160. *Pied Bushchat (Saxicola caprata) -- 24
     Equal numbers on Bali and Flores. Best views were at the Bali Handara Country Club near Bedugul, Bali.

161. Australasian Bushlark (Mirafra javanica) -- 2
     Seen in display flights at Bali Barat NP at the Bali Myna site.

162. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) -- 10
     Scattered individuals on Bali, Sumbawa, and Flores.

163. *Pacific Swallow (Hirundo tahitica) -- 17
     Dirtier white underparts and less forked tail than the previous species. Seen on Bali, Sumbawa, Komodo, and Flores.

164. *Striated Swallow (Hirundo striolata) -- 26
     Most were over the rice fields near Lembor, Flores. One was at Nangarewa. A rather large swallow.

165. *Sooty-headed Bulbul (Pycnonotus aurigaster) -- 15
     Several seen well near Gilimanuk at Bali Barat NP. Others were around the Santika Beach Hotel and one was at Suwung.

166. *Yellow-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus goiavier) -- 91
     One of the commonest birds on Bali, found in all areas at all elevations.

167. *Gray-cheeked Bulbul (Alophoixus bres) -- 10
     One noisy group was encountered in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP, where one bird from the group was glimpsed briefly.

168. *Oriental White-eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) -- 128
     Common in lowlands and around gardens and hotels on Bali.

169. *Mountain White-eye (Zosterops montanus) -- 85
     All were at higher elevations on Flores.

170. *Yellow-bellied White-eye (Zosterops chloris) -- 39
     ENDEMIC to Indonesia. Inhabits small islets and coastal areas. First found at Bali Barat NP, then a few seen on Komodo Island. Most were on western Flores.

171. *Yellow-spectacled White-eye (Zosterops wallacei) -- 26
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa, Flores, and Sumba. One was seen on Sumbawa and a few were on Komodo Island. Fairly common on Flores. Looked a little like a Pine Warbler, but with black lores (not shown in the new Wallacean field guide). The distinctive orange forehead was not easy to see.

172. *Gray-throated White-eye (Lophozosterops javanicus) -- 134
     ENDEMIC to Java and Bali. Abundant in the highlands of Bali around Bedugul.

173. *White-browed White-eye (Lophozosterops superciliaris) -- 27
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. All were in the highlands on Flores around Ruteng.

174. *Dark-crowned White-eye (Lophozosterops dohertyi) -- 8
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. All were in the hills in western Flores. Not accurately portrayed in the new Wallacean field guide.

175. *Flores White-eye (Heleia crassirostris) -- 21
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. All were on Flores, with most in the western hills northeast of Labuhanbajo. A few were in higher elevation forest around Ruteng. Also not accurately portrayed in the new Wallacean field guide.

176. Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis) -- 2
     Seen singing and in flight display in a rice field near Jembraha, Bali, on our first day.

177. Golden-headed Cisticola (Cisticola exilis) -- 23
     Most common on Komodo Island. Several seen in central Flores mainly in highland areas.

178. *Bar-winged Prinia (Prinia familiaris) -- 21
     ENDEMIC to Sumatra, Java, and Bali. A few were seen at Bali Barat NP, but most were around the Santika Beach Hotel and near Suwung. Good views at the hotel. Others were on the open lawns in the gardens of the Jakarta airport.

179. *Russet-capped Tesia (Tesia everetti) -- 50
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. Common in all habitats at nearly all elevations on Flores. Easy to hear, but difficult to see. We did eventually get views of a few skulking in the undergrowth.

180. *Russet Bush-Warbler (Bradypterus seebohmi) -- 3
     An extreme skulker found only at the Bali Botanical Gardens. Eventually we did get reasonable looks at one.

181. *Mountain Tailorbird (Orthotomus cuculatus) -- 16
     Heard more than seen. Most were on Flores and best views were at Mt. Ranakah. Also found on Bali, but only briefly seen.

182. *Olive-backed Tailorbird (Orthotomus sepium) -- 8
     ENDEMIC to Java, Bali, and Lombok. All were in the lowlands of Bali Barat NP.

183. *Mountain Leaf-Warbler (Phylloscopus trivirgatus) -- 7
     All were in the highlands on Bali around Bedugul.

184. *Timor Leaf-Warbler (Phylloscopus presbytes) -- 54
     ENDEMIC to Flores and Timor. Common in the highlands around Ruteng, Flores.

185. *Yellow-breasted Warbler (Seicercus montis) -- 1
     Near Lake Rana Mese near Ruteng, Flores.

186. *Sunda Warbler (Seicercus grammiceps) -- 2
     ENDEMIC to Sumatra, Java, and Bali. Good views of one at the Bali Botanical Gardens. Another seen briefly at the Bali Handara Country Club.

187. *Horsfield's Babbler (Malacocincla sepiarium) -- 1
     Seen briefly in the undergrowth at the Bali Botanical Gardens.

188. *Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler (Pomatorhinus montanus) -- 1
     Glimpsed briefly in a thicket at the Bali Botanical Gardens.

189. *Pygmy Wren-Babbler (Pneopyga pusilla) -- 12
     Another undergrowth skulker. Heard frequently, but only seen once, all on Flores.

190. *Crescent-chested Babbler (Stachyris melanothorax) -- 12
     ENDEMIC to Java and Bali.

191. Great Tit (Parus major) -- 10
     Most were on Bali, but a few were in the highlands on Flores.

192. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) -- 3129
     Seen around human habitations on all islands. Largest group was the 3000 or so coming to roost in the mangroves near Pantus, Bali.

193. *Red Avadavat (Amandava amandava) -- 8
     All in one group at a roadside stop near Lembor, Flores. Becoming rare due to the cage bird trade.

194. Zebra Finch (Taeniopygia guttata) -- 4
     All were on Komodo Island.

195. *Javan Munia (Lonchura leucogastroides) -- 31
     ENDEMIC to Sumatra, Java, Bali, and Lombok. Most were seen in rice paddies on our way to, and in lowlands of, Bali Barat NP. A few were in the gardens at the Jakarta Airport.

196. *Black-faced Munia (Lonchura molucca) -- 75
     ENDEMIC to Sulawesi, Moluccas, and Lesser Sundas. The first few were seen on Komodo Island, with most on Flores. Good views in several locations. Most numerous in open areas along roads and in rice paddies.

197. Scaly-breasted Munia (Lonchura punctulata) -- 116
     Seen almost exclusively around human habitations on Bali and Flores.

198. *Five-colored Munia (Lonchura quinticolor) -- 3
     ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas. Seen at the same roadside stop near Lembor, Flores, as we saw the Red Avadavats. Brief but excellent view.

199. *White-headed Munia (Lonchura maja) -- 47
     Most were seen flying overhead on their way to roost in mangroves at Pantus, Bali. A couple more were seen on our last day near Suwung.

200. *Oriental Pipit (Anthus rufulus) -- 6
     One was at Bali Barat NP, four were on Komodo Island, and one was near Bambor, Flores.

201. *Golden-rumped Flowerpecker (Dicaeum annae) -- 7
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. A rather dull flowerpecker seen high in trees on Flores. Best view was in the scope along the road into the hills northeast of Labuhanbajo.

202. *Black-fronted Flowerpecker (Dicaeum igniferum) -- 26
     ENDEMIC to Sumbawa and Flores. Two were seen in the forest northeast of Bima, Sumbawa, and a few were seen on Komodo Island. All others were on Flores at middle and higher elevations.

203. *Blood-breasted Flowerpecker (Dicaeum sanguinolentum) -- 2
     ENDEMIC to Java, Bali, Flores, Timor, and Sumba. One was seen near Bedugul, Bali and the other was seen in the scope near Lake Rana Mese, Flores. Both were males.

204. *Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trochileum) -- 25
     ENDEMIC to Borneo, Java, Bali, and Lombok. Seen only in mangroves near Pantus and Suwung, Bali, where they were easy to hear but difficult to see well. Only a few females actually seen.

205. *Plain-throated Sunbird (Anthreptes malacensis) -- 31
     First seen near Bima, Sumbawa. A couple were on Komodo Island, and most were on Flores mainly at lower to middle elevations.

206. *Olive-backed Sunbird (Nectarinia jugularis) -- 59
     Common on Bali and Flores, including right at the Santika Beach Hotel, Bali, where we had our best views. All were in lowlands.

207. *Flame-breasted Sunbird (Nectarinia solaris) -- 12
     ENDEMIC to Lesser Sundas. A much nicer bird than the new Wallacean field guide shows, with a flaming red throat shading through orange to the yellow underparts. Seen best, and in greatest numbers, on Komodo Island. A few were seen in lowland forests on Flores.

Amphibians

• Rana sp. dead on road near Labuhanbajo, Flores

Reptiles

• Flying Dragon (Draco volans?)
  One seen gliding from one palm to another at the Santika Beach Hotel, Kuta, Bali.
• Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis)
  A total of nine seen on Komodo Island.
• Tokay Gecko (Gekko gekko)
  Seen and heard on Flores Island.
• Indo-Pacific Gecko
  Throughout, possibly more than one species seen.
• Skink sp.
  Komodo I.

Mammals

• White-toothed Shrew (Crocidura monticola) or Musk Shrew (Suncus mertensi) are the only shrews listed by Walker for Flores Island, the second one Endemic. (most likely the former species because of its narrower tail and black fur)
• Rousette Fruit Bat (Rousettus leschenaulti) -- most likely the species roosting in a palm in front of the Santika Beach Hotel, Bali. -- 20+ individuals roosting together.
• Flying Fox (Pteropus vampyrum) -- most likely the species seen at Bali Barat NP and near Bima, Sumbawa.
• small bat sp. -- several seen nightly. Most memorable was the small bat that flew repeatedly within a few feet of us, drinking water from the channel near Suwung, Bali, well before sunset.
• Crab-eating Macaque (Macaca fascicularis) -- common in many areas of all islands.
• Crested Leaf Monkey (Presbytis cristata) -- several seen on the peninsula with the Bali Mynas.
• Giant Squirrel (Ratufa bicolor) -- seen well in a tree at Bali Barat NP.
• Malayan Squirrel (Callosciurus nigrovittatus) -- seen at Bali Barat NP.
• Spinner Dolphin (Stenella longirostris) -- seen well from the boat to Komodo I.
• Wild Boar (Sus scrofa) -- Although skittish, easily seen on Komodo I.
• Muntjac (Muntiacus muntjak) -- Several were easily seen on the Terim Peninsula, Bali.
• Sunda Sambar (Timor Deer; Cervus timorensis) -- common and easily seen on Komodo I.
• Asian Water Buffalo (Bubalus bubalis) -- not seen wild, but domesticated, on Flores I.

Butterflies

• Common Birdwing (Ornithoptera priamus) -- seen on Sumbawa and Flores.
• Argyrius hyperbius or Danaus genutia -- seen throughout, a Monarch-type.

Return to trip reports.