General

Birding highlights from a 10-day holiday with my partner Irene in Southern Portugal between 12^th and 21^st September 2000, during which we stayed in three locations on the Algarve: Faro, a location just inland from Luz, and Tavira.

Sites visited

I watched birds at the following sites on or near the coast, listed here in order of their location as you move from the Spanish border in the east, round to the border with the Alentejo region on the west coast. The best areas were the Ria Formosa around Faro, especially Ludo Farm/Quinta do Lago, and the area around Sagres at the south-western tip of Portugal. The Ria Formosa is a 60km stretch of protected marshes and saltpans and is alive with birds at this time of year. Sagres is at Portugal’s Land’s End, a rocky coastal zone with two headlands about three miles apart, one the site of a fortress (Fortaleza de Sagres) and the other (Cabo de Sao Vincente) the site of a lighthouse.

• Castro Marim (20^th) – saltpans at the border with Spain. Held good numbers of Black-winged Stilts, Avocets and Flamingoes, but not the hoped-for Lesser Short-toed Lark, Calandra Lark, Stone Curlew, etc.
• Ilha de Tavira (21^st) – ostensibly a trip to the beach on the last day of the holiday, but turned up Redstart, Melodious Warbler and commoner migrants in the mixed vegetation in the dunes. Also good numbers of waders and Spoonbills on the nearby saltpans.
• Quinta do Marim (13^th) – headquarters of the Ria Formosa Natural Park. One of two sites where I saw Purple Gallinule.
• Faro harbour (12^th & 13^th) – first view of the abundant shorebirds on the Ria Formosa, plus an evening gathering of Pallid Swifts.
• Montenegro waterworks, nr. Faro (19^th) – a brief late afternoon visit; large numbers of waders but disturbed by a falconer.
• Ludo Farm, nr. Faro (19^th & 20^th) – superb location, with large numbers of Azure-winged Magpies and Flamingoes, as well as Purple Gallinule and a roost of hundreds of White Storks. An immature Osprey also passed through on my second, fuller visit here. Apparently the area can be approached from the Quinta do Lago side to the west. I arrived from the Faro side by taking the road towards the airport and taking the first turning on the right about half a mile after the sign for Montenegro on the left. As the road bends left, leave along a track through pine trees.
• Ria de Alvor (15^th) – another site of saltpans on the Ria Formosa.
• Belo Horizonte hotel and environs, nr. Almadena (13^th–19^th) – nondescript scrubland of olive and fig trees a couple of miles inland just off the main east-west road, but quite fruitful for birds, which included Quail, Little Bustard, Little Owl, passerine migrants and an overflying Green Sandpiper.
• Sagres and environs (16^th & 17^th) – The area was good for specialities such as Chough, Raven, Blue Rock Thrush, Little Bustard, Tawny Pipit, Iberian Yellow Wagtail and Thekla Lark, as well as for migrants and seawatching for shearwaters. In addition, the area is excellent for watching raptors that are funnelled towards Sagres having drifted west of their course for Gibraltar and roost in the local pine woods. When I was there, SPEA, the Portuguese RSPB equivalent, had just started its autumn migration watch, which has resumed this year after a gap of a few years caused by a lack of funding. I called at the watchpoint twice for about an hour each time and, despite less-than-ideal winds and the mid-afternoon lull, was shown several Honey Buzzards, an Egyptian Vulture, a Booted Eagle and a Short-toed Eagle. I also saw several Black Kites, a Red Kite and a Hen Harrier in the area. To get to the watchpoint, take the track on the right about halfway along the road towards the Cape from Sagres, just after the first hotel and restaurant buildings. Bear right at the first fork and pass by the edge of the pine trees on your left, then curve round to the watchpoint, which is a white landmark visible to your right.
• Aljezur and environs (18^th) – not a birding location as such, but site of large mixed flock of Red-rumped Swallows and House Martins from around the castle hill, and Woodlarks nearby.

I used C. C. Moore, G. Elias & H. Costa, ‘A Birdwatchers’ Guide to Portugal and Madeira’ (Prion 1997) for local information and carried the Collins Bird Guide with me in the field. The trip was arranged at a day’s notice and the Birdwatchers’ Guide was the only book on Portugal in stock at Foyle’s bookshop in London. I found it fine for basic orientation to the top sites, though a more detailed guide such as Dave Gosney’s would be required by anyone going after specific local birds. I also looked at one or two trip reports on the Web, in particular Gruff Dodd’s excellent write-up of a trip at a similar time of year in 1999. In retrospect I regret not printing out a copy and visiting some of the inland sites he mentions.

Annotated species list

1. Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) : several on the reedbed pools at Quinta do Marim (13^th) and Ludo Farm (20^th)
2. Cory's Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) : steady passage past Fortaleza de Sagres & Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th)
3. Manx/Balearic Shearwater (Puffinus puffinus/mauretanicus) : steady passage past Fortaleza de Sagres & Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th); max. 15 together
4. Gannet (Morus bassanus) : common at sea
5. Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) : 1 Cormorant/Shag in flight on Rio Alvore estuary (15^th)
6. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis) : common on agricultural land or with cattle
7. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) : common on Ria Formosa
8. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) : common on Ria Formosa
9. White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) : fairly common, with a flock of hundreds of birds gathering before sunset at Ludo Farm, nr. Faro (20^th)
10. Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia) : 29 Tavira (21st)
11. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) : numerous Ludo Farm (19^th & 20^th); 9 Castro Marim (20^th)
12. Gadwall (Anas strepera) : 6 Quinta do Marim (13^th); more numerous at Ludo Farm (20^th)
13. Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) : common on Ria Formosa
14. Shoveler (Anas clypeata) : 1 Quinta do Marim (13^th); numerous at Ludo Farm (20^th)
15. Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus) : 8 in total from watchpoint nr. Sagres (16^th & 17^th); max. 3 together
16. Black Kite (Milvus migrans) : 1 in heavy moult Fortaleza de Sagres (16^th), seen later over pine woods in company first with a Red Kite and then with a Hen Harrier; 3 next day at Cabo de Sao Vincente (17^th) including same bird; 1 Sagres beach (18^th)
17. Red Kite (Milvus milvus) : 1 poss. juv. near Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th)
18. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) : 1 imm. from watchpoint nr. Sagres (17^th)
19. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) : 1. from watchpoint nr. Sagres (17^th)
20. Hen Harrier (Circus cyaneus) : 1 fem. near Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th)
21. Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus) : 1 from watchpoint nr. Sagres (16^th)
22. Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) : 1 dark phase from watchpoint nr. Sagres (17^th)
23. Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) : 1 imm. Ludo Farm (20^th)
24. Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) : common
25. Quail (Coturnix coturnix) : 1 briefly at close range Belo Horizonte hotel (18^th)
26. Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) : small numbers on reedbed pools at Quinta do Marim (13^th) and Ludo Farm (20^th)
27. Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio porphyrio) : ad. feeding juv., Quinta do Marim (13^th); ad. & juv. Ludo Farm (20^th)
28. Coot (Fulica atra) : numerous on reedbed pools at Quinta do Marim (13^th) and Ludo Farm (20^th)
29. Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) : 7 seen briefly in flight nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th); 3 with free range farmyard birds nr. Belo Horizonte hotel (19^th)
30. Oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) : fairly common on Ria Formosa; max. 46 Ria de Alvor (15^th)
31. Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) : common on Ria Formosa
32. Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) : fairly common on Ria Formosa, especially on saltpans; largest number at Castro Marim
33. Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula) : small numbers on Ria Formosa
34. Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) : very common on Ria Formosa
35. Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola) : fairly common in small numbers on Ria Formosa
36. Sanderling (Calidris alba) : 4 Tavira (20^th); 3 Castro Marim (20^th)
37. Little Stint (Calidris minuta) : fairly common on Ria Formosa
38. Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea) : fairly common on Ria Formosa
39. Dunlin (Calidris alpina) : very common on Ria Formosa
40. Ruff (Philomachus pugnax) : fairly common on Ria Formosa
41. Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa) : common on Ria Formosa
42. Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica) : fairly common on Ria Formosa
43. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) : Castro Marim (20^th); Tavira (21^st)
44. Curlew (Numenius arquata) : fairly common in small numbers on Ria Formosa
45. Redshank (Tringa totanus) : very common on Ria Formosa
46. Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) : fairly common in small numbers on Ria Formosa
47. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) : 1 Ria de Alvor (15^th); 1 north over Belo Horizonte hotel (16^th); 1 Montenegro waterworks, nr. Faro (19^th); 1 Ludo Farm, nr. Faro (19^th)
48. Common Sandpiper (Tringa hypoleucos) :
49. Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) :
50. Black-headed Gull (Larus ridibundus) :
51. Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus) :
52. Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis) :
53. Sandwich Tern (Sterna sandvicensis) :
54. Little Tern (Sterna albifrons) : 2 in Faro harbour (12^th); Tavira (21st)
55. Rock Dove (Columba livia) : 20+ on cliffs below Fortaleza de Sagres (16^th),
56. Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus) : heard at Quinta do Marim (13^th)
57. Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) : very common
58. Turtle Dove (Streptopelia turtur) : still fairly common
59. Little Owl (Athene noctua) : 1 or 2 seen and heard around Belo Horizonte hotel (14^th–19 ^th); 2 Ria de Alvor (15^th); also heard at 2 other locations
60. Swift (Apus apus) : 1 Almadena (18^th), strikingly dark with little pale on face
61. Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus) : c.60 at dusk at Faro harbour (12^th), and singles at several locations throughout. Almost all the Swifts I could identify seemed to be Pallid.
62. Alpine Swift (Apus melba) : 10+ Almadena (18^th)
63. Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) : Ludo Farm (19^th & 20^th); Castro Marim (20^th)
64. Hoopoe (Upupa epops) : common
65. Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) : heard Ludo Farm (20^th);
66. Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla) : 1 Ria de Alvor (15^th)
67. Crested Lark (Galerida cristata) : common
68. Thekla Lark (Galerida theklae) : common on stony ground around Sagres
69. Woodlark (Lullula arborea) : 4 nr. Aljezur (18^th)
70. Sand Martin (Riparia riparia) : 1 Ludo Farm (19^th)
71. Swallow (Hirundo rustica) : many locations; largest number c.25 south over Fortaleza de Sagres (16^th)
72. Red-rumped Swallow (Hirundo daurica) : many locations; largest number c.20 Aljezur Castle (18^th)
73. House Martin (Delichon urbica) : still present; max. c.20 Vila do Bispo (17^th) and Aljezur (18^th)
74. Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava) : heard at Quinta do Marim (13^th); 3 at farm nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente including adult male iberiae (16^th); 6 south Belo Horizonte hotel (18^th); 2 Castro Marim (20^th); several Ludo Farm (20^th)
75. White Wagtail (Motacilla alba) : 3 in flight, Almadena (13^th)
76. Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris) : several nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th & 18^th);
77. Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) : common around Sagres
78. Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus) : ad. m. Ilha de Tavira (21^st)
79. Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra) : 2 Ria de Alvor (15^th); 5 nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th); 1 Belo Horizonte hotel (17^th); 1 Ludo Farm (20^th)
80. Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) : common
81. Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe) : 4 nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th); 1 Castro Marim (20^th)
82. Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius) : fairly common around Sagres
83. Blackbird (Turdus merula) : common
84. Cetti's Warbler (Cettia cetti) : several heard Ludo Farm (20^th)
85. Fan-tailed Warbler (Cisticola juncidis) : fairly common
86. Melodious Warbler (Hippolais polyglotta) : 1 Ilha de Tavira (21^st)
87. Dartford Warbler (Sylvia undata) : several on clifftop vegetation nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th & 17^th)
88. Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans) : 1W male by watchpoint nr. Sagres (17^th)
89. Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala) : very common
90. Whitethroat (Sylvia communis) : several around Belo Horizonte hotel (14^th–19^th)
91. Chiffchaff sp. (Phylloscopus collybita/brehmii) : 1 Belo Horizonte hotel (17^th)
92. Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus) : extremely common migrant; max. c.100? along short stretch of road between Sagres and Vila do Bispo (17^th)
93. Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) : very common migrant
94. Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca) : extremely common migrant
95. Great Tit (Parus major) : 2 Belo Horizonte hotel (14^th); Ludo Farm (20^th)
96. Southern Grey Shrike (Lanius meridionalis) : Belo Horizonte hotel (16^th & 19^th); Castro Marim (20^th)
97. Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) : juv. Belo Horizonte hotel (14^th); 1 watchpoint nr. Sagres (17^th); juv. Castro Marim (20^th)
98. Azure-winged Magpie (Cyanopica cyana) : very common Ludo Farm in loose flocks of up to 30 birds
99. Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax) : 2 or 4 nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th); 2 between Sagres and Vila do Bispo (17^th)
100. Jackdaw (Corvus monedula) : common
101. Raven (Corvus corax) : 2 nr. Cabo de Sao Vincente (16^th)
102. Spotless Starling (Sturnus unicolor) : small numbers in most locations away from habitation
103. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) : very common
104. Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild) : 2 Faro harbour (13^th); 5 Ria de Alvor (15^th); and various other locations
105. Greenfinch (Carduelis chloris) : one or two locations
106. Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) : common
107. Linnet (Carduelis cannabina) : common
108. Corn Bunting (Miliaria calandra) : c.80 at sunset Ria de Alvor (15^th)